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Anyone ever done the O ring conversion kit for brake calipers?

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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 10:18 PM
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Default Anyone ever done the O ring conversion kit for brake calipers?

Seems like this would be an inexpensive way to fix any leaking lip seal caliper. If I were to install the O-ring conversion kit,new brake pads and connector brake hoses, I am hoping this will Remedy my issues.


Thoughts??
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 11:50 PM
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Yes, I did this conversion about 15 years ago. I was lucky that my calipers already had the stainless steel sleeves from previous brake issues.
In the past we would regularly have issues with leaking lip-seal pistons. After I swapped them out there hasn't been any problems.
I hope this helps.

Cheers

Andy
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 05:47 AM
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Just make sure you get the raybestos kits they are the ones you want all the other ones are no good and you will be replacing them for sure .. I have replaced a ton of these and even done the stainless conversions back when my father had a shop in jersey
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 07:18 AM
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I would still recommend flushing the brake fluid.
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 08:50 AM
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I kept buying reman calipers and every single one leaked. Then I did the o-ring rebuild from CSSB and never had an issue. I'd recommend it.
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 09:14 AM
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The switch to the O-ring style seals is a good improvement over the original parts used on these Corvettes. I did mine many years ago and it has still held up.
Flushing the fluid is a "Must Do", not optional any more.

Get a mini brake hone for cleaning up the stainless inserts inside your calipers before putting the new parts on the car. Cleaning the inserts will assure you of a good seal inside the calipers. Cleanliness is critical. I cleaned mine up until they were smooth as glass inside the bores in the calipers. I found it easier to split the calipers which allows better access to the areas of concern. Not hard to do and there are not a lot of parts so anyone could do it.

The Phoenix Reverse Bleeding Pump is a very handy tool when working on your brakes. I can flush all four wheels by myself in less than an hour using the Phoenix bleeder. I like tools that save me time...
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 07:35 PM
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I used the CSSBinc kit. I have 2 or 3 with SS sleeves and atleast one that doesnt, cant really remember since it was about 5 years ago and they havent leaked since. You dont need SS sleeves, you just need cylinders without pits. When you split the calipers you will know if you have any pits. These cars are so old that most calipers out there have SS sleeves already if they needed them.
I have a wrte up on the whole thing somewhere
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Old Mar 7, 2026 | 07:35 AM
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O-rings on the caliper pistons are "theoretically better" than the OEM GM lip seals (not convinced BTW) but these replacements can and do leak if not installed, correctly, as others have noted. Most SS lip seal calipers (and O ring calipers too) leak due to the seals getting old (age), from contaminated brake fluid due to the failure to REGULARLY change/flush the fluid (every 3-5 years), and making sure the brake rotors are within GM Specs to prevent the brake pad pulsing back and forth against the rotor as the rotor spins.

My car sits 99.99% of the time with zero special brake attention between rides and installed by be in 1985 (YES, 1985!!!), Vette Brakes SS LIP SEAL Calipers (out of business), are still leak free 40 years later....CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID REGULARLY.

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Old Mar 7, 2026 | 09:02 AM
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Yes the biggest problem is no use and the fluid ..if they are not used for a while and are exposed to freezing temps the condensation in the system will freeze and produce rust and expansion that will destroy the lip seals and the o rings
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Old Mar 7, 2026 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by brushmor
I kept buying reman calipers and every single one leaked. Then I did the o-ring rebuild from CSSB and never had an issue. I'd recommend it.
I second the endorsement of CSSB O-ring brake kits.
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Old Mar 7, 2026 | 09:16 PM
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Well, my car doesnt sit..i usually put 5000 miles on it a summer, make her work for it too. No leaks and stops great. Havent changed the fluid since i did the rebuild, guess i should check and see if there is still fluid in there. I will be adding a line lock some some fluid will be changed i guess
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by forman
Just make sure you get the raybestos kits they are the ones you want all the other ones are no good and you will be replacing them for sure .. I have replaced a ton of these and even done the stainless conversions back when my father had a shop in jersey
How exactly were the stainless conversions done? I guess the should be stainless to use the O ring properly.
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 07:16 PM
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The stainless was a sleeve to fix the piston cylinders that rotted frome excess water in them. There was a magazine story years ago on this that said the majority of the rebuilt calipers on the market had, and the ones that didnt didnt need them. i have 2 or 3 with sleeves and the reainder without. No issues.
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Old Mar 8, 2026 | 08:31 PM
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Basically, machine out the bores the thickness of the sleeve. Giving it an interference fit. Warm up the casting so it expands. Chill the sleeve so it contract's. Press the sleeve into the bore. Now having it back to the original standard bore size. And now with a corrosion resistant surface.
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Old Mar 9, 2026 | 12:26 PM
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Most rebuilt calipers I’ve seen have been sleeved with SS inserts. Check yours, they might be already sleeved. I’ll agree with changing to ORing seals. I don’t know how many sets of sleeved calipers I went through. Brand new pads soaked with fluid and wasted. Aggravating. I switched to oring setup several years ago. No problems so far.
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