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Trailing Arms & Compatibility

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Old Mar 28, 2026 | 01:25 PM
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Default Trailing Arms & Compatibility

I think I know the answer, but I’m hoping I’m wrong…

There’s a pair of used, loaded, good condition trailing arms for sale near me. Price is right, no shipping, maybe some haggling. But…

They’re from (seller says they are) a 1980 and I’ve got a 1969.

Almost every reputable online seller makes a distinction around 76-80 or 80-81, others say ‘65-82.

The only difference I’ve found (so far) is the axle-shaft attachment style:
Flange vs Yoke

Can you guys enlighten me on any other differences?
[e.g. bearings, hubs, backing plates, park brakes, rotors, calipers, bracket position for brake lines and/or cables, etc…]

Thanks in advance!

John
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Old Mar 28, 2026 | 03:30 PM
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The axles, bearings, studs, parking brake, arms, and rotors are the same. The 80-82 used a yoke, they had a shield over it. Gold cad plated backing plates started in 76.

More important
Condition. Are they rebuilt or original, check the arms for being bent or rot. If rebuilt, that can mean anything from good to bad.
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Old Mar 28, 2026 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GTR1999
The axles, bearings, studs, parking brake, arms, and rotors are the same. The 80-82 used a yoke, they had a shield over it. Gold cad plated backing plates started in 76.

More important
Condition. Are they rebuilt or original, check the arms for being bent or rot. If rebuilt, that can mean anything from good to bad.
Good info - no, wait - GREAT info! Thanks!

To address your points…
  • Looks like I'll have to swap out yoke & hardware for a ‘69 [axle shaft U-joints while I’m in there, Spicer, of course]
  • They look good but can’t tell what color backing is. They’re used, so … dirty but not filthy silver/gold isn’t as much of a concern (not going for judging, just driving).
  • I’ve read up on replacing and that’s better off-car + bearing preload setting …might have to budget for a dial-type torque wrench
  • Rebuilt/original or new is a question I’ll ask the seller. They’re clean & painted, with rotors & calipers.
  • Condition? Yep, read about that here, check for square, inside rot or not, bends/kicks/wows in the metal; painted to hide rust or actually clean.
At a certain point, they’re better than what’s installed right now, but getting the old ones out will be a challenge in itself.

I'd rather have good replacements on-hand than assume what’s on the car is salvageable.
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Old Mar 28, 2026 | 04:30 PM
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Also,
I have an A.I.M. on hand, and know I’ll need hardware & alignment shims for the arms.

The exhaust is out (mid-/tail- pipes & mufflers)
I'm looking at a rear spring, too - VanSteel
She needs tires and current brakes are ??? ok maybe?

Already researched pads & rotors for manual brakes; looked at mine … they’re toast; rust in the fins, deep-fried calipers.

I'm trying to flat-rate this and overlap my labor for the best payout
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