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So the rubber ring is separating on the harmonic balancer from my '78 L82. It's 8" diameter and 1 5/8" thick. Do you guys get yours rebuilt? There's damper doctor and damper dudes both out in CA that can rebuild. Zip sells a new one for $74, but that seems low and makes me question quality. https://www.zip-corvette.com/69-80-350-harmonic-balancer.html
Not looking to go crazy here, but want something that will last. Thanks
I used Damper Dudes. There will be no doubt it will fit and you know it was manufactured. Turnaround time for me was less than a week. They did the dampers on my 66 and 68 coupes. Jerry
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no matter whose damper you install, DO ensure you also install a new seal in timing cover and (before pushing damper onto crank) you also lightly lube seal's lips and outside diameter of damper's snout. FWIW: primary cause of dampers' rubber degradation is exposure to oil & engine degreasers. Closely followed by time-temperature.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Mar 31, 2026 at 10:59 PM.
I'd just buy a new one. Summit has a few to choose from. I purchased one with timing marks out to 50 degrees and valve lash marks every quarter turn. I'm so glad I did.
I'd just buy a new one. Summit has a few to choose from. I purchased one with timing marks out to 50 degrees and valve lash marks every quarter turn. I'm so glad I did.
FWIW: OZ man, that Pioneer 8" sbc neutral damper P/N DA-3502 I suggested just above .... the last few I got were in a Pioneer box imprinted "Made In Australia" ... dunno where they come from at this juncture ... Australia, Mexico, dunno. Have had only good results w/ Pioneer. Form-Fit-Function all A1.
Be careful of the finish of the damper. I bought a beautiful one that had some kind of clear coat, a few years later it turned into a rusty mess and it is virtually impossible to read the stamped numbers on it without using sandpaper first. My BB damper was made in Australia as well.
Common cleaners can remove the surface finish (clear coat) and leave them vulnerable to corroding. I wish I had spent a few more dollars and bought a better quality part...
Nobody ever told me that I was supposed to Hone the hole in the damper to fit my crankshaft better, this reduces the force needed to install the part in the first place. I have struggled getting some Dampers on the crankshaft after purchasing them new. A little oil, a brake hone and a drill will get your parts fitting better without damaging the snout of the crankshaft. Take your time but don't remove too much material and measure it often.
Be careful of the finish of the damper. I bought a beautiful one that had some kind of clear coat, a few years later it turned into a rusty mess and it is virtually impossible to read the stamped numbers on it without using sandpaper first. My BB damper was made in Australia as well.
Common cleaners can remove the surface finish (clear coat) and leave them vulnerable to corroding. I wish I had spent a few more dollars and bought a better quality part...
Nobody ever told me that I was supposed to Hone the hole in the damper to fit my crankshaft better, this reduces the force needed to install the part in the first place. I have struggled getting some Dampers on the crankshaft after purchasing them new. A little oil, a brake hone and a drill will get your parts fitting better without damaging the snout of the crankshaft. Take your time but don't remove too much material and measure it often.
Too OLD Too Soon, Too Smart too Late...
Honing the inside of the damper is NOT recommended. It is designed to be a press fit. Putting the damper in your wife's oven for an hour at about 200 degrees and using a proper damper installer is about the only way to install one properly.
No. Sometimes, some damper snout bores Require honing to the proper interference fit spec (often 0.0008" to 0.0012") as specified by several different damper manufacturers. Either too much Or too little is BAD. Either fit too tight or too loose is BAD. This is Not something that can always be resolved satisfactorily simply by using heat or refrigeration.
Honing is typically Not a home DIY task either; instead ask your auto machine shop. To get this right, you must first accurately measure crank snout's OD with a good mike to Four decimal places, And the dampers bore with inside mike/dial bore gage to same degree. Many DIYers don't have gaging that good or reliable or have little proven technique with good gaging.
Some better damper brands will (for a fee) actually hone damper to fit the snout size you've measured and provided damper manufacturer (before shipment). Crank snout OD varies widely amongst different crank makers.
It's mostly the higher end performance dampers that need to be select fit honed before install. A regular stock or stock replacement damper will just press on.
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Harmonic Balancer Needs Replaced: new or rebuild?
