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When reinstalling front springs after replacing bushings. I’m having a heck of a time getting back to the ride height I started with. My question is what affect If any occurs when the coil is full in the pocket covering the hole in the lower control arm vs a full hole showing . My corners are aprox. LF 27 inches, LR 28 inches, RF 28 inches, RR 29 inches, measuring from wheel lip to floor. These are after driving back and forth in the driveway. Want to achieve 28 inches on all corners. Trying to decide if one of the front coils need to be reinstalled. Thanks
You should shoot for about 3/4 to 1 inch higher in the rear.
front end lift at speed is a real issue with these cars. A bit of rake is the answer.
your front springs should be indexed at the top. Small hole in upper spring pocket. Drop a screw or small bolt in the hole. Install spring holding it up and rotate until it touches your screw. Back off a 1/4 inch. Install your spring compressor and assemble. Before you install the shock, look up and double check the position. With the screw now removed from the hole you should see the hole roughly 1/4 inch from the end of the coil.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
I have similar readings at 25 psi all around: DF = 26.4, PF = 27.1, DR = 27.5, and PR = 28.4.
I'm OK with a front to rear rake but would like to even out that DF side to PR side 2 inch rise also like yours. Thinking in my case it might be easier to try lowering the high PR height by lengthening the PR leaf spring adjusting bolt to bring down and hopefully that will raise the low DF a bit as well.
If it’s do to a weak spring , would flipping the spring around work. Also considering 8 inch bolts, wasn’t sure if that’s just a bandage covering up an issue that needs to be fixed.
When you install those eight inch bolts there are a couple things to watch for.
First make sure the bottom of the bolt isn’t lower than the rim lip.
There has been many threads discussing this issue because if you have a low tire or get a flat tire the bolt will dig into the roadway and can cause a lot of damage to the car or cause a serious accident.
Second and depending on your tire and wheel width, on cornering the tire or wheel can come into contact with the spring end or bolt and can also cause damage.
One thing to check is the rating on the new front springs.
They could have a higher pound rating which can affect ride height and stiffness.
As stated above, make sure they are installed into the pockets correctly, let them settle and drive on them before you start doing other things that may not be necessary.
Mel, thanks for your suggestion, I’m actually doing those measurements today. Will see what they tell me.
OCB…. I will do as you are suggesting before I change anything, the front coils are original, car has 36000, miles on it. I bought this car in Jan, needed all new bushings,as the original ones weren’t very good, the car did sit a little high in the RR, but not quite as high as it now is. I’m hoping as you suggest driving it will settle things. Being a bit of a perfectionist, when I walk in the garage, seeing the RR high drives me nuts, I will conquer this 😎
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Looks like pretty normal initial readings, with a touch of wedge thrown in. The LF is the heaviest corner on a C3, while the RR is the lightest. I'd try running the RR spring hanger nut down a couple turns before doing any other changes.
Mel, thanks for your suggestion, I’m actually doing those measurements today. Will see what they tell me.
OCB…. I will do as you are suggesting before I change anything, the front coils are original, car has 36000, miles on it. I bought this car in Jan, needed all new bushings,as the original ones weren’t very good, the car did sit a little high in the RR, but not quite as high as it now is. I’m hoping as you suggest driving it will settle things. Being a bit of a perfectionist, when I walk in the garage, seeing the RR high drives me nuts, I will conquer this 😎
Do you have the rear 6" bolts with the original style castle nut with a cotter pin to prevent them from loosening?
I assume you have the original rear steel spring?
How would you describe the angle of the rear half shafts?
Is the inner end slightly higher than the outer end?
Thanks, I do have the both nuts all the way down , they are the 6 inch original bolts. Yes, original rear spring, and the half shafts are slightly higher on the inside.
Thanks, I do have the both nuts all the way down , they are the 6 inch original bolts. Yes, original rear spring, and the half shafts are slightly higher on the inside.
Did you do the front end rebuild yourself, or have it done?
If you don’t have a copy get a copy of the AIM for your year model.
There is a procedure for how to torque the front suspension components and I believe some require that the total vehicle weight is on the suspension before or during the time the suspension components are torqued.
You may even need to roll the car before things are torqued to spec.
If there are factory or aftermarket sway bars on the front or rear, those get tied into the suspension with the full weight on the suspension and I believe after it’s aligned.