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AFR Eliminator part number help

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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 04:47 PM
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Default AFR Eliminator part number help

I've been reading countless threads and emailed AFR but still don't have my answers.

1979 stock L82
Hooker LT header
Stock intake, cam, etc

Which AFR heads do I need? #1041 (72 degree) or #1034?
I assume straight plugs

Suggestions welcome for all other parts needed
Head bolts
Rocker arms
Pushrods
Head and exhaust gaskets

Last edited by clemsondave; Apr 18, 2026 at 11:58 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 06:55 PM
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Suggest do Not order 72 degree intake bolt option.

Suggest 195cc runner too large for street motor w/ L82 cam; suggest about 175-185cc. Too big leans toward soggy throttle in traffic.
runner Volume and runner Velocity tend to be inversely proportional. Velocity is your friend.

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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 05:14 AM
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Regardless of which AFR heads you choose (mine are the 185 runners), a couple things I found on my recent purchase that surprised me after I put them on. The plug pockets were not large enough to allow room for a socket to install the plugs. I had to thin wall my already thin wall socket and even grind material out of the pocket to allow me to install the plugs. The second item that is clearly stated on the specs (but didn't click with me before I put them on) is the temperature sensor requires 3/8 NPT while your original is probably 1/2 NPT. There are work arounds but check both before you put them on when the modifications can be machined off the engine easily (if needed), I also inquired about the issues but never received an answer. I didn't expect that for the price.
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 05:52 AM
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Interesting. A few years back. Due to budget constrictions. I went with Edlebrock heads. They flow well. But not as well as AFR's. But. I could only afford what I could afford and getting my engine repaired was paramount.
The Edlebrock heads accepted the factory temp sensor with zero issues. The Edlebrock heads gave me zero issues with standard spark plug tools. Yes I did need to change the style of spark plug from a tappered seat plug, (Stock) to a gasketed style plug for the Edlebrock heads. Minor as I would of course install new plugs with a engine rebuild anyway. Everything from intake to valve covers to exhaust to sensors fit up as factory. Even all the accessory mounts.
OK. Maybe just a couple HP difference on a mild street engine.
Less money. Everything fit perfectly.
HUMMM.
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sauterindy
The second item that is clearly stated on the specs (but didn't click with me before I put them on) is the temperature sensor requires 3/8 NPT while your original is probably 1/2 NPT.
An 81-82 temperature sender is 3/8" NTP.

JT
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 11:57 AM
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Looking at the 195s because a 383 is most likely in my future.
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 12:46 PM
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perhaps acquire a cheap rusty truck/van/escalade w/ viable L31 Vortec core motor, or just the cheap motor.
They all have roller cams+roller lifters and are Ideal as base to build into a hot rod. Pretty good heads for starters and new OE type roller lifters are stupid cheap and summit has an entire line of all-USA billet steel roller cams for under $290.
Use the Vortec heads or they're Easy to sell off.

Or, source a viable sbc 400 ('70-'80) and build on it.

you can do any of that while still riding around w/ OE motor.

It may be helpful to have a hot rod sbc circle of friends that're not in vette community.

Last edited by Rebelyell; Apr 18, 2026 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2026 | 12:22 PM
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I have AFR 220cc CNC ported cylinder heads on my 427 small block and I'm very happy with them. Be aware that most of the AFR heads have raised exhaust ports for improved flow. This doesn't affect the exhaust manifold or header position appreciably, but it does screw up any accessories that are mounted to the exhaust manifold bolts. I had to get very creative with the mounting bracket for my air conditioning. I probably spent as much time on that as I did on the rest of the engine build.
The 72 degree heads do not apply to our cars. This was a later intake bolt configuration (sometime in the '80s?)
I would use the 195 heads. Engine Masters did a test of cylinder head sizes a few years ago. Probably still available on YouTube and I would review it before you trust my memory, but as I recall the 195s performed as well as the smaller heads, and it leaves you the option to upsize the engine later.
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Old Apr 19, 2026 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jthornton
An 81-82 temperature sender is 3/8" NTP.

JT
If using it for an earlier model than 81-82 one would need to check compatibility with the earlier gauge for proper reading. I know earlier gauges look for about 80 ohms at boiling water temperature and not sure what the 81-82 gauges look for. There are work arounds if not the same but something to check before one would buy that 3/8 NPT version. It may be the same but suspect not.
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Old Apr 20, 2026 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by clemsondave
Looking at the 195s because a 383 is most likely in my future.
FYI... If you order your heads direct from AFR, just let them know and they will drill the correct size temperature sender hole for you. (Otherwise you get the standard small one).
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Old Apr 20, 2026 | 05:51 PM
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Aluminum heads are best fastened by bolts With Hardened Flat Washers.
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