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So I have been bleeding the brakes for it seems like a week now. Used the pump and hold method, the gravity method, and tapped the calipers with a hammer. All the tricks!! With the engine off I get a great pedal. Nice and firm. Start it up (power brakes), hit the pedal, and down to the floor it goes. Takes two or three pumps to get any kind of pedal. Anyone else experience this?? I'm starting to question whether the master cylinder is suspect. I'm not seeing any kind of air coming from the lines. Any ideas/help would be appreciated.
Sounds like its time to let a pro take a shot at bleeding the brakes with a power bleeder system... Can it be driven?
Since were on the subject... my 76 has one caliper that constantly leaks. I'll bleed out 10-20 bubbles and drive it for a few hundred miles and then its time to bleed again...
Another question... When I start up from cold - my brake pedal moves down on its own so far that it lights up the brake lights - drive a few miles and let things warm up - and the pedal is resting back at the top of its travel? Whats up with that?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Another Bleeding Brake Question (Kim72)
Usually you don't have to bleed the Master Cyl. unless new/replaced. Replacement Master's are bled on the bench before install - easy to do with a little hose kit supplied with new Master Cyl..
As for bleeding the lines I use the solo method with a small tubing from bleed fitting into small cup with end submerged in fluid.
Any decent brake shop will power bleed your system for <$100. Carefull though as they may look for $200-$300 worth of business. :bb
I had this problem on an old Cutlass. It ended up being water in the fluid. I used at least three cans of fluid bleeding until I had good pedal. Didnt think it would ever end.......