Which would yeild a better return? I'm not sure the gains I'd get with a stroker kit, going from 350 to 383. I'm down to my short block and it wouldn't be too hard to switch while I"m there.

OR...
I can get better heads. I'm already getting aftermarket heads, but I was thinking instead of Dart heads (or something else that isn't too much), I could go with AFRs. Big price diff...I found these though which don't seem too high.
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/afr210cc.html

Things I'm conerned with: HP/Torque, Reliability, Streetability, Fuel Effeciency.

 

I'd go with the heads 1st. 1st off it's easier to do. And the V.E of the motor (if you change the cam too) will be greatly increased and you'd proably be happier with the power increase. Since stroking the motor increases the ability to pull air in and out, it's needing a bigger and smoother path for it to flow in and out of (IE bigger ports, cnc porting and so forth). To get the most out of the extra cubic inches of stroking the motor, a bigger cam and better heads would be required. But, I'm just a 17 y/o fool...so. do what you would feel would be best. :crazy: :yesnod:

-Aaron.

 

Joe,do both and you will be happier...it makes a real difference and if you can afford the extra $,the aluminium heads are well worth it....john :chevy ;)

 

I have about a $1600 budget for this, unfortunally, as I still have to tackle the exhaust and other misc items (Such as ingnition system, brakes, and a tranny rebuild).

So in your opinion a 383 Stroker with say Dart Iron Eagle heads would be better than ARF aluminum heads? I could port and polish the Darts, but would be scared to touch the aluminum ones (might be able to get ported for free, however).

 

Iron heads make more power. Aluminums weigh less. But AFR's are damn nice heads.

 

IMO, considering your list of goals (drivability, mpg, etc.), 210cc heads are too big. Besides being a couple hundred bucks cheaper, I think you'd be happier with one of the smaller AFR's (or similar). While different heads are likely to provide a greater hp increase than just stroking, increasing displacement increases power at all rpm ranges and not just at higher rpm. If you're replacing pistons anyway (and/or the crank requires work or replacement), taking it to 383 may make a lot of sense, even more so if you can do the heads also. If you aren't able to do both now, it will be a lot easier to change the heads later than to change the displacement.

 

Pistons are fine right now. Oddly, the smaller AFR heads on that site cost significantly more. I'm thinking maybe a stroker with Dart Pro 1 heads...what sort of power would this yeild?

 

:withstupid: Stroke the motor now and watch for a good deal on some heads
Neil in Tenn

 

The cost is pretty much the same either way you decide. If you stay with the 350/better heads,the rear gears will have to be changed for you to really notice the difference. If you stroke it ,the gears can stay,and you will definately feel the difference,but the top end may be choked with the stock heads if you over cam the stroker.I would guess 400hp easy with a mild cam and stock heads though.
For what it's worth I dropped from 17 to 15mpg when I switched from the 350 to the 406,so the mileage isn't really a big deal..

 

ok...well it seems doing it now would be best, as I don't plan on pulling the engine again (HOPEFULLY!!!! lol) for quite a while. I see a package on enginekits.com for around $500. Is there anything I should look out for? If it is that low in price to do, I can get the dart heads as well.


Kit Che 383SK: (2pc seal/carb) 1pc seal optional Powerhouse 383 Stroker (5.7 Rod) Piston; 10.8 compression (using 64cc heads) 9.5 compression (using 76cc heads) Street/Strip rings; CR1 5.7 rods, rod bearings; main bearings; complete gasket set (2pc. seal/carb) Includes brand new 383 Stroker cast crank only $469.

So with this is there anything else I'd need for the stroker?

 

joe that kit still needs balancing from a machine shop,usually $150-200 to do it.

 

Ouch. Well then what is the best price for stroker kits that you guys know of on the web? I was hoping for $600 ready to be installed.

 

You really need to come up w/ an overall design plan. If you are going to run TPI designed for a 305 & can barely feed a 350, then 350.

The answer to the question posed in this topic is 383.

:cool:

 

For the record, I went with the bored 350 with better heads, trans, converter and gears. This combination (with improved headers, carb, intake and exhaust) really kicks azz!

If you want to save some money on machining your block while also getting a good deal on a prepared block and new parts:

I know of 2 engine shops in Chevy High Performance that offer 2-bolt 383 short blocks and assembly kits for under $1000. Add Dart Iron Eagle heads and the flywheel and damper from a 400 and you are at $2000 for the parts. Am assuming you use the remaining hard parts from your donor engine (intake, carb, distrib, oil pan, etc.), you are good to go.

2-bolt 383 block and assembly kits:

Larry's Performance Shop, Inc. - $995
This kit includes fully prepared block, magged, powerhoned, brass freeze plugs, cam bearings, pistons, recon crank and rods, MI77 bearings, moly rings, Performance cam and lifters, Fel-Pro gasket set, high vol oil pump, double roller timing chain, all parts balanced (you provide the flywheel and damper).
Montebello, CA 90640
323-722-8865

Hyetech Performance - $995
La Puente, CA 91746
626-855-1154

Consider this block kit is less than the price of a set of Dart Pro 1 heads (or about $100 more than a set of Dart Iron Eagle heads).

Check out these guys for prices on the Dart Iron Eagle and Pro 1 heads (from $849 for Iron Eagle and $1065 for Pro 1):
Aerohead Racing Components
Indianapolis, IN 46239
317-862-0223

I bought my 180cc Dart Iron Eagles from Aerohead (aka Indy Cylinder Head). Very happy!


[Modified by TedH, 8:49 AM 3/19/2003]

 

Thanks for the info ted. I was reading around and saw that I could just change the crank and it'd higher in displacement, but not quite 383 (like 378 or something). I don't remember the actucal number, but I could keep my pistons and possibly rods just using this crank. They have them up on ebay. Anyone know about this? If I don't have to bore out my block that's money savings there in addition to the rods and crank.


I plan on changing the TPI setup out to the LT1 intake (keeping the electronic components) to handle high flow numbers. I already have all the TPI components and it will only be on the car for a couple months until I can get the LT1 intake (there is a conversion page for this that I'll have to look up to show you how to make an LT1 intake work on a TPI engine).

 

Wherever I have read about stroking a 350 out to a 383, you must clearance the block for the longer throws. That means a potential tear-down, cleaning, etc. since the clearancing will create metal shavings.

I think 378 is a stroked 350 without an over-bore (ie. .030 overbore yields an additional 5ci, 378 + 5 = 383).

A 377 is a de-stroked 400 (400 with a 350 crank). That doesn't require clearancing of course.

As for just swapping in a crank, my understanding is that you have to go with a fresh set of pistons if you are going to use your 5.7" rods. For example, POWERHOUSE (661-861-0167) offers a SBC 383 storker kit - as seen in Hot Rod Magazine Jan '01 on "the cover" (chev 383 stroker kit 5.7 rod flat top piston) includes:
Powerhouse 383 storker (5.7 rod) piston - 10.8 or 9.0 compression (using 64cc heads) 9.5 or 8.5 compression (using 76cc heads). Street/strip rings, CR1 5.7 rods, rod bearings; main bearings; complete gasket set; includes brand new 383 stroker cast crank: only $469 (as of Feb 2002).

Add $199 for balancing, damper, and 400 flywheel (Feb 2002 prices).

You would add cost of block setup and machining to this price. That's why I suggest you check out the two parts suppliers.

NOTE: I just realized that the $995 prices were from Feb 2002. They may have gone up about $100 since then...



[Modified by TedH, 12:00 PM 3/19/2003]

 

So what would be the least expensive course of action for a stroker?

 

If your heart is set on spending the least for a 383 configuration while getting the best value, I'd highly recommend you contact the two outfits I suggested in an earlier post (or an equivalent).

Considering the prices (around $1000) for the 383 short block kit with all of the reconditioned/new goodies and assuming you intend to add/reuse your heads, oil pan, carb/intake, exhaust and ignition, I'd say that is the best bang for buck (and you get to keep your short block). Add the flywheel, damper and misc other items and you have a 'budget 383 for around $1500 (assuming there are shipping charges and shop supplies to purchase).

 

Well I guess there is alot more research I need to do then before jumping into something like this. I was hoping that not having to bore my block would cut down on prices but never considered balancing the assembly. I wonder if I could find a way to do it for $600ish keeping block stock?

Anyway, I'll read and ask around what other options I can do. I'll check back in with more questions on this after that I'm sure. Thanks for the help thus far! :)