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I'm planning to disconnect/plug the vacuum line that controls the thermal actuators. An added measure will be to insert screws just below the flaps in the air cleaner to keep the actuators from rotating (blocking the flaps).
I took the C3 out and what a difference!!! Took it through an 1/8th mile on a lonely stretch of road and it hooked in 1st, positively shifted from 1-2 (used to stagger before catching in 2nd with the 3.06 first gear ratio) and banged into 3rd. The car 'feel's stronger and gets up to 4500rpm between gear changes in no time at all. I really do believe the air cleaner was 'shutting down'.
Now, I gotta buy $75 worth of time on Race Related's dyno to be sure. :smash: :smash: :smash:
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: DynoDay Dissappointment... (TedH)
Now you got me hooked! :crazy: Very interested your combo as similar to mine. Can't wait for read your next dyno try. :yesnod:
BTW have you tried a G-tech for comparison with dyno results?
The a/f ratio spiked over 13 after I took my foot off of the gas. Prior to that, it hovered around 11.8-12.0. Old a/f hovered between 13.2 and 13.5 right up to 5200rpm.
13.2 and 13.5 is fine...stoichiometric (best molecular ratio) is 13.7. The number incidates the number of units of AIR per one unit of fuel. Thus, the higher number means more air. 11.8 is really rich...probably due to the snorkle being shut.
You should be getting way better HP and TORQUE than what your dyno shows. Keep tweaking and diagnosing until you get it right. My presumably stock 350 with factory '69 style side pipes turned 289FTLB of torque with 203HP. Here's some images of my dyno run sheet: