It is leaking in a seam. Fuel drips in to the spare tire carrier. We noticed it while doing some other work. What options do we have? Can it be repaired in place without removing the tank?

TIA

 

Welding a gas tank is sticky business. Special care has to be taken to drain the gas and neutralize the fumes inside before applying a torch. Has to be taken out. One leak (which leads to another) would tell me it's safety has been compromised, and is time to replace it. It's not that hard to do. While your in there...replace the sending unit, hoses, and padding too. You'll be glad you did in a few years. Better safe than sorry/stranded/exploded!!
Eddie

 

:iagree:
For the $200 you'll spend for the new tank, It sure isn't worth messing with the old one.

 

Replace the tank.

 

I was hoping to hear that there is some kind of fix (even if temporary) with the tank in place. The exhaust is welded. It looks like the exhaust will have to be cut down first before the tank can come down.

 

Paul,
You can try to use epoxy on seam. It needs to be clean and dry before application. But even if this works, I would make a plan now for replacement.
Ed

 

I have seen this stuff called JB weld on the store shelf. Anyone ever used it or used a product like it? Is that epoxy??

I dont want to drop the exhaust and the tank right now. Spring is here! If I can seal it up for this summer and change the tank next winter that would be ideal.

 

JB Weld... The magic tool of bubbas everywhere. I have used JB Weld on radiators and it worked very well, lasted for years. There is a forum member who recently fixed a crack block with this stuff, though we are still waiting to see how it holds.

I would think that JB Weld would be an excelled temporary fix. It should last for a long time on a gas tank, but I would still want to have it replaced after awhile. Its also very easy to use.

 

:iagree: I bought a new replacement tank who's quality is just as good as original, with all the correct indents too. Got it for $175.00 on Ebay directly from the manufacturer. The swap took 3-4 hrs by myself, and that included all new hoses, sending unit, straps, and padding. Also POR-15 on the cross brace before hand. I wouldn'd take the chance of leaking fuel in a closed garage. But...that's just me! :D :D :D
Eddie

 

Paul,
As Eddie :seeya & others said, it's safer to get a new one. But (me Bubba!) I had a leak in mine & couldn't find a new tank for an '81 :( Mine was right in the bottom so I had to remove the tank. If you can empty the fuel you should be able to do this fix with it in place:
Drain the fuel & make sure there's none left in the tank. I do this by running water in it with a hose for an hour or so, then drain the water & dry it out by sticking an air line in for a few hours (if the water causes corrosion that opens up other holes then junk the tank). Locate the hole & clean the surrounding area thoroughly, then rub it down with 240 wet-or-dry, making sure that the area around the hole is very clean. Then get hold of some low melting point solder (I'm gonna get some real abuse for this advice! But it worked for me - twice). Get a couple of soldering irons, preferably the type that are low temp but high power, ie they'll keep the metal hot even though heat is being rapidly conducted away. Flux all round the hole & heat it with both irons until the solder melts and bonds with the metal of the tank. Fill the hole with solder (this will only work on small holes) & let it cool down. If you smell fuel at any time, stop immediately & flush the tank with more water. Add fuel to check that it's fixed the leak. I then covered the fixed area with a fuel tank repair epoxy as a belt & braces fix. It's been OK for a year now, but I'm still on the lookout for a new tank. Good luck & take huge fire precautions if you try this fix. I did mine with the tank well away from anything just in case of fire. The fuel tank repair epoxy I got was for in situ fixes, so it may be the better option for you (at least there won't be any chance of blowing your Vette up). I veiw epoxy (even when sold as fuel tank repair stuff) as a Bubba fix. Solder is the next step up (Bubba+) & I feel a bit safer with solder & epoxy as the fix. If you fix it rather than get a new fuel tank then keep a regular check on it for any leaks.
Good luck,
Paul G!
edited for safety reasons!: It's far safer doing this with the tank off the car. Can't you remove the entire exhaust system as an assembly by unbolting it at the manifolds? Getting the tank itself out is fairly easy, especially if there's 2 of you doing it. Since doing mine I've found a product called Krem (probably spelt completely differently) which is a 3 part treatment used for m/cycle gas tanks. If it's safe for use on a gas tank suspended directly above a hot engine then it's probably OK. The 1st part cleans the inside of the tank, the 2nd etches the metal & the 3rd sticks a layer of some sort of fuel resistant epoxy/resin(?) all over the inside of the tank. This bonds to the metal & forms a fuel proof layer on the inside of the tank, making a tank within the tank. The only downsides to using it is that the tank needs to be out the car & the stuff is expensive (about $45 for a m/cycle gas tank).
The bottom line is that you should get a new tank. If you can't because you can't find one (anybody making tanks for an '81?) then be VERY careful. I've seen a m/cycle tank catch fire & it left huge black marks on the underside of the Hammersmith flyover in London, England (outside the Hammersmith Odeon for those that know London) while flames were leaping over the bridge. People driving along it at the time said it was like being in a Hollywood film! It only had 2 gallons of fuel in it & melted most aluminum parts of the bike (including the top of the crancases!). A fire in a Vette fuel tank will destroy your car & anything nearby.


[Modified by UKPaul, 5:33 PM 3/25/2003]

 

I have used JB Weld on fuel tank pin hole leaks many times with much success. But if you have a seam leaking it may not by repairable. If you cover the leak now, and the seam keeps on seperating, its not worth it.....

What year is your vette? I have a tank for an 80 vette that is in very good condition.

 

Hey Paul! :seeya :seeya Necessity is the mother of all invention. That's quite a tank repair process you did! Gee...I never tought of adapting Krem (sp?) to Vette applications. Jolly good show mate! :D :D
Eddie :cheers:

 

If you attempt to weld or solder the tank you are putting yourself, your car and your home and family at great risk. You can empty your tank but you can easily have enough remaining fumes to explode during this process. I am a safety manager and you would be surprised how many people have died from cutting ot welding on what they thought were empty drums and tanks. Spend the $200 and get a new tank. Good luck.