Yeah for me.... I belong to the heater core club. :hurray: Finally putting it off for as long as I could I bit the bullet and completed the task successfully. I have to agree with a lot of past comments on this project. The car was built around the heater core I felt like a contortionist. On the other hand its not a impossible project just some time involved and some patience and your set. I invested about 12 hrs so far and about 7 more to finalize items but it was one of those few hours here, few there type deals. I got a lot of help from this forum and from member "wcj" how wrote a very complete synopsis on the removal of the core. Thanks JEFF!
One thing a know for SURE! I don't ever want to do this job again.
Just thought others would be interested, maybe others can relate, and maybe see how others fell about there future entanglement with this GM wonder????
SEE YA!

 

yikes! Glad yours went OK. Living in FL, I'll probably bypass mine if it ever needs replacing. Now, evaporator is a different story! But at least it's out under the hood :)

 

Congrats! :cheers:

The best part of that job is having it over with :yesnod:

There aren't many times when I think of how "old" my car is getting, but there are several times I have thought of how old my "new" heater core is getting :eek:

 

You have passed the ultimate C3 test! Your diploma is in the mail ;) .

 

The drive-train and chassis on C3’s are brilliant. Thank you Zora!

The body structure sucks however. Why do we never know the name of who designed the dash for our Sharks? Because he would doused in 30 weight and then covered in fiberglass roving.

Welcome to the club. Word of caution, especially on the earlier C’3, the left side of the dash is no easer.

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

 

I had to replace mine shortly after purchase. When I was half way done I had both seats removed along with the center console and dash. I didn't ever think I was going to get it back together. And the look on my wife's face! :eek: I did fix some wiring problems. For those planning on doing this job, make sure you have the new core pressure tested before replacing it and get it back together. It's not repair I would want to do again.

 

One thing a know for SURE! I don't ever want to do this job again.


Yea from what I've heard it's no fun. :nono: Not at all! :sad:

Mine never leaked (interestingly enough!) but I didn't connect it when putting the motor in. I put plugs in the Intake Manifold and Water Pump both and removed the hoses. That car is so darn hot inside I've never regretted it a bit. You must be in an area that is a Whole Lot colder than here! :lol:

 

Yesterday, the hose going to my heater core busted. For now, I bypassed the heater core. But, I want to do the repair right. The 12+ hours you invested in this project only confirms my fears of the repair at hand.

I don't want to patch the hose, only to have it bust again. I want to replace all the heater lines, and since I'm going through all this trouble, might as well replace the heater core.

With that in mind, what is the absolute best heater core available? I want one that will outlast me. Do they make aluminum heater cores?

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread, but I thought this question would be a good one to ask.

:cheers:

 

Yeah, alot of people suggested to just by-pass the stupid thing and save the grief, I thought by by-passing it I would run a risk of the car running hotter. These things run hot anyhow. as it is but I didn't feel right. It belongs on the car, it was fine when I first bought it so.... anyhow thats just how I am.
I don't know if they make aluminum cores. I had a hard time finding a delco/harrison core so I opted for a similar alternative with tapered copper tubes. I had it tested and the rad shop added extra silver solder and a brace. The 12+ hours remember was a conservative estimate. I had no help, and really no clue on how to tackle this thing. Like I said if it wasn't for a past post on a similar 82 I would have been clueless, the Chiltons really wasn't a help.

 

I'm looking at doing the heater core in mine, it's been bypassed for over a year but I'll replace it while the interior is out for remodeling. Can you post or send me the instructions you got from "wcj". Thanks. :cheers:

 

Hey rafox77!!!!

I searched the archives again for the past post but can't find it.:mad Luckly I printed it so I can look for the original person who posted the question, (because wcj wasn't the original post he answered a question) and send it to you or re-post it. Heck, I can even e-mail direct if you want. For me it was very helpful.

 

HUMMMPFH, I donotwannatellyouaboutall the heater cores I have had to replace in 40+ years of driving.....youreallydon'twannaknow....

GENE

 

Hey rafox77 below is the post on a 82 heater core replacement. I hope it is as helpful to you as it was for me.

I just replaced a core in an 82. I can give you some tips.
first of all there is only one nut on the top of the heater box under the hood that has to be removed. after the removal, jack up the car and remove the clamps from the heater hoses and use a utility knife to cut the hoses for easier removal. If you look up into the evaprator box where the heater core tubes come through, you will see a rubber gromet with two holes that the tubes come through. remove this grommet. On the inside of the car remove the center gauge cluster which consists of radio and four screws plus two 1\4 or 5\16 bolts that bolt the gauge bezel to the shift console (these screws are mounted up from the bottom of the shift console and screwed into the gauge bezel. by the way before you can gain access to the heater control unit or the screws that mount the gauge bezel you have to pull the two carpet insert pieces that cover the shift console. these are mounted with 3 screws per side located approx: one in the foward half under the dash, one in the center just before the back of the shift console and one in the rear half just before the rear bulkhead under the parking brake console. be careful when pulling the plug from the printed circuit board and at this point I would probably pick up a new printed circuit board since the contacts will probably pull loose anyway. there is also another lead that plugs into the top gauge light which is easy to remove and one more three wire plug that mounts to the oil temp gauge, after you pull the glove box insert out. in fact pull the glove box insert first. remove the 2 screws on the door body post that holds the r\s of the dash tight and this will allow you to pull the right side of the dash loose enough to remove the rest of the parts ( the top of the dash just lides out of a mounting clip). pull the center duct out which is only held in with one screw. unbolt the heater door cable (mixing door) from the housing, pop off the retainer and take the cable off. disconnect the vaccum plug off of the heater control unit to free up the vacuum lines and remove the vacuum line from the right side diaphram that is right above the kick panel. remove the remaining bolts from the inside of the heater box (3) wiggle the box loose and as you twist the box down remove the one vacum line from the diaphram that is located on the other side of the heater box (firewall side in the inside of the car). you will probably have to play with twisting the box around since the core tubes take a 90deg. bend outside the firewall and sometimes the tube are so tight to the firewall it feels as though there is still one part bolted together. once the box is out you have to seperate the face by removing the old seals to access the screws to get at the core. I used self sticking foam insulating strips to reseal everything and you just have to buy 90deg. molded heater hoses for the new install from any auto parts store, one hose is 5\8 and the other is 3\4. one note on the install: when you go to reinstall the box and new core have someone under the car with a long screwdriver or extension to help "move" the tubes alittle since they were meant to be installed without an evaproator box. Be careful with these tubes but they can and probably will have to be bent slightly in order to accomplish the installation the only plus is that you can't puncture the core because of the 90deg angle but you probably can brake the solder joint loose if you aren't careful although again because of the 90 angle it would take some doing. you just don't want to ruin the hose falres at the end of the tubes. do yourself a favor and pull it out one night and install the next morming with a clear head to prevent frustration. It's not impossible to do but it does take patience. also make sure you cover the carpeting to prevent antifreeze or water from staining it. also as an after thought don't have your old core repaired since a brand new core only runs about $50. GOOD LUCK Jeff. by the way, the blower motor comes out from the outside of the car and isn't involved with this job at all. if you need further advise you can email me

 

Welcome to the club. I replaced my last year. My car doesnt have air, but I still spent 8 hours to do the whole job.