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Yes, the rotor will probably be straight but there can be something wrong with the rotor mounting on the hub. Sometimes it takes a little shimming to get it right. Make sure the contact surfaces are nice & clean.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Front Rotors (69side)
I got my front rotors fro J.C. Whitney $44ea. I seated the new inner bearing according to the manuals and had zero runout. I thought runout was primarily a rear rotor problem.
After the rivets are out take a grinder and grind the hub where the rivets were. Don't grind to much. You just want to eliminate any lips on the hub surface. Than stick your rotor on and try to get a good run out. Shimming is not a real good idea because over time your just going to worp the rotor. Also don't forget to mark your rotor and hub just in case you need to service something down the road. If you have any questions give me a call and i'll try to help you out the best i can. - Dan :thumbs:
I always check rotor runout. It is easy to do if you have a dial gage and magnetic holder. The front wheel bearings must also be set right. .010 is the totol runout that the seal can stand so if the bearings are at .001-.008 and you have a few thou rotor runout you exceed the allowable .010 and the seals will pump air,
Always check if a rotor has been remove.
Remember to torque all 5 wheel nuts before checking.
I find the easiest thing to do is measure the rotor by 'feel' with 3 lugs tight on it.....just spin the thing...if runout is a bit much,....flip the thing into another position, next index over the lugs....keep it in line with what position you are using....that way you can find the minimum r/out....Yeh, I agree that all 5 lugs should be secure, but I get lazy and only use 3....oh well, what can I say...
all this talk of micrometers and runout seems a bit silly to me, IF you leave the springs out from behind the caliper pistons....
funny, the 65-82 vetes are the only cars on the road with piston return springs....;-)))
at any rate, with the caliper mounted and pads in place...spinning the rotor gives me a fine idea of runout, just by feeling the pads move back and forth...
Ruxperienced. A dial indicator can be bought very cheaply along with a magnetic base and holder. I end up using a C clamp and a piece of angle iron for some place to clamp the magnetic base to.
I install all 5 lug nuts , tighten them as much as possible then set up the dial indicator on the rotor surface any way you can , but do not set the magnetic base on something not attached to the front sprindle, like a chair of something. It must be part of the wheel assembly.
Anyway slowly rotate the rotor reading the gage. Figure out which way the gage is moving, in or out represents what. After a few minutes you will figure out the high and low spot.
You can use pop cans to make shims. Cut the can into little say 3/4 inch squares. I use a cheap set of hole punches to punch a 7/16 hole in the middle to put over the low stud.
It might take a few tires but you will quickly figure out where to put the shim and only use one on the low spot. Retighten the nuts and recheck.
Also grab the rotor and wiggle it back and forth to show wheel bearing play.
You could have a perfect rotor and the wheel bearings could be causing the runout or air pumping.
The seal in the caliper piston can only flex .010 before it starts pumping air.
If you need to know how to set front bearings just ask.
Have a nice day
mrvette. I thought you wouldn't be lazy and just do it by feel. If you spin a rotor it is not perfectly round and you see the rotor moving up and down in the caliper and it would throw you off looking for runout. And how can you see the difference between a few thou?
You are more maticulous then that. :) :) :)
Have a nice day
Bair's in PA can sell you a new rotor and rivet it to your hub. They have some used parts, you may be able to work a exchange deal with them. Check them out and see what they have to offer.