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Were exactly should the ring gaps be? Should the oil ring gap at something like 3 o'clock the midlle ring at six and the top one at 9' oclock? And while were on the subject, what is blow by and why do you want to avoid it? Do you engine builders oil your ring gaps before putting them on the pistons. Thanks in advance!
Re: question about puting rings in pistons (sharkthehunter77)
There may be some specific, best way to position the ring gaps but I just moved the gaps to alternating places around the piston. If I remember right I heard that the oil ring gap should be at 12 o'clock or furthest away from contact with any oil.
I've wondered about blow-by too. I've had the problem in an engine before. Probably something to do with water in the oil and low compression.
I didn't oil the rings before putting on the pistons but I did oil the rings while on the pistons just before installing them into the block.
Re: question about puting rings in pistons (midwest-vette)
I to am not sure about where to clock the ring gaps, However I used Total Seal rings, so that issue is put to rest. However I would honestly thing that the ring would move around over time. This is how I see it, Air likes to travel the pat of least resistance, and will infact make a path of least resistance if possible, so I would think as the air pressure travels between the gaps on it's quest for the bottom end it would actually start to align the gaps. I know it's a far fetched idea, But I think it could happen. As for blow by in general, Blowby is simply the amount of air that escapes through the gaps and over time with where you will begin to have a tapered bore, The air pressure will actually escape past the contact surface of the rings them selfs. Reason why is, the ring has a tapered or notched back surface facing the piston groove air pressure travels around the ring to this backside and enabling it to be pushed outward up against the cylinder wall, so you would think the more cylinder pressure, the better the seal, But then you have to remember that with the amount of pressure that has to travel around the ring to the back side, the same or ever greater pressure is simply trying to work it's way straight down between the ring and cylinderwall, so with an older/used engine, the pressure could actually keep the ring from making a solid contact with the wall. Of course the ring it's self give out a certain amount of resistance to keep a solid contact with the cylinder wall, but that can quickly be shortened when the use of a supercharger or Turbo is added.
But that is just my thoughts, I have hardly any formal training in mechanics, This is what I just figure happens.
Re: question about puting rings in pistons (sharkthehunter77)
Old school practice is placing the ring gaps at 180 degrees to each other.
Past engines I have done or witnessed, the rings get oiled after on the piston and before being installed into the engine. Blow by occurrs when the engine draws oil past the rings, useually due to gaps or age or incorrect ring seating.
Re: question about puting rings in pistons (65vette327)
Well Chiltons has a diagram, I can't scan it but lets see if I can describe it.
On the drivers side pistons as you look at them top ring gap at 12 o'clock, 2nd ring at 6 o'clock, oil ring rail gaps at 4 and 8 o'clock with the tang of the spacer at either 10 or 2 o'clock. This is with the wrist pin at 3 and 9 o'clock.
The passenger side has top at 6 o'clock , 2nd at 12 o'clock, oil ring rail at 10 and 2 o'clock and the oil ring spacer at either 4 or 8 o'clock.
Hope that helps, oh this is for small block but I believe big block would be the same.
Re: question about puting rings in pistons (Scott78)
The corrugated section of my oil ring has red and black tabs at the ends, is this to prevent overlap? OK, the real issue is the actual oil rings themselves, they dont seem to fit flush into the grooves of the ring slit. Am i sapposed to push the gaps closed somehow. All this talk about wrist pins makes my head hurt because i dont know what those are, and while were at it if someone could describe the "tang" of the spacer that would be great also!
You need be very clear on your end gap, and NO I do not think you should be able to touch them together by pinching them when they are in their groove. They need to expand when they get hot. IF you do not have proper gap your rings will touch and once they touch there is no other way to expand but just outwards, and SNAP!!! then you engine will make a Crackle!! followed by a loud POP!! end result, possibly busted pistons, scored cylinder walls, destroyed bearing journals. The worst part is you can actually snap a ring bust a ring land on the piston, and may not even realize it right away. and you could be driving around with a metal grinder for an engine.
Your Wrist pin is that big pin that connects the piston to the piston rod. Now I personally have not really used ring spacers nor have heard of a tang "I am assuming they go hand in hand with spacers," which I believe are used in pistons with raised wrist pins. which as a result locate the wrist pin more towards the middle of the oilring groove. This gives the oil ring seat groove a rather large gap which is filled by the spacer. I personally don't trust them cause those spacers are so thin. but thats just me. .
I hope I am not feeding bad information here, someone correct me if I am.
Re: question about puting rings in pistons (sharkthehunter77)
I do remember that the rings have to be installed on the pistons with reference to the angled edge being either up or down (I can't recall which) but you might want to check with someone here before going to far.
You'll need a ring compression tool to install the pistons into the block. When you set the piston into the cylinder be sure to put a small section of rubber hose on the rod bolts so you don't happen to scar the walls.
If you don't have a manual you probably should pick one up. Nobody wants to do it twice (well, maybe some things :D )