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Was doing a little cleaning this weekend on the underside of the car and noticed oil (i think) coating the dust cover of the flywheel. I think thats the right terminology :confused: Its black with a small hole. I read in past posts that may have been there for that exact reason to allow oil to drain out. IS it oil that can be there?? How about tranny fuild???? But anyhow, can anyone tell me what I would be getting into checking this thing out? Is this a job for professionals? I just recently changed the valve cover caskets about a week ago. That couldn't be it right?? If I remember :confused: I think I saw oil there before, thats what made me think valve cover because the passenger side of the block was oil covered from about the gasket down. Any input on the rear main seal would be appriecated!!! :)
I have the same on my '80. I believe it's the rear seal but can't tell for sure. I don't see oil dripping down from the valve covers so I don't think mine is comming from there either. I'm afraid to drop the tranny cause I'll have it rebuilt once it's out.. might as well put in a new clutch too.. then it's only a few more bolts and I can pull the motor for a rebuild too.. This could turn into something expensive really quick.. :smash: :smash:
It could be oil or tranny fluid. Obvioulsy one fluid will be black and the other red. I've seen oil can get to the dust cover from leaking at the valve covers, oil pan or rear main seal. The front tranny seal could also be leaking trans fluid.
Valve cover gasket replacement is easy compared to oil pan gasket or rear main seal replacement. Oil pan gasket is not that bad either, but most folks recommend you remove the engine to replace the rear main seal. It can be replaced with the engine in the car, and I have done it, but I've told myself I won't do it again.
Since you have replaced the valve cover gaskets, I would clean up the oil that has leaked out previoulsy and then watch for any leaks. To check the oil pan gasket and rear main seal, these usually leak while the engine in running.....so clean off all the oil, start it and watch for leaks. Same with the front tranny seal, it usually leaks while the engine is running. Good luck. :thumbs:
Go to auto parts store and buy some dye to put into engine oil, then run and leak check, and you'll be able to tell if rear main, leaking oil will have dye in it, if no dye, then leak is probably auto trans seal. (must remove transmission to replace)
That doesn't sound like a bad ideal. :yesnod: I can at least pinpoint the problem instead of guessing. From what I'm reading the rear seal or tranny seal my not be anything for a novice like me. Thanks for the advice.
Just a short note to point out that the rear main was a split seal until 1986 and does not require the transmission or engine to be removed. A transmission leak is normally the front pump seal and does require removal of the transmission.
This is the rear main bearing cap with split seal.
That's the 2 piece rear crank seal.
It goes into the rear of the block and the main cap
Here's the rear of the block:
The seal goes onto the ridge on the rear. The groove in front of it is for the crank and rear main bearing
The pan seal goes into the machined area on the outside of the cap, visible here:
So what your saying its not just a easy fix? MAybe the garage should handle it :D I appreciate the pics and all. It sorta makes me think a few dollar part and a heck of alot of labor.... I had a old Mustang that had a front seal go took it to the shop for a $100 problem solved. Would or has anyone attempted this on there vehicle???
I did this on my 82 and you have to drop the steering connection from the hydralic ram to the control rods-tie rods. After that, you can drop the oil pan and tranny convertor cover. Remove the oil pump and then remove the rear seal block. I think I had to loosen the starter bolts also to be able to move the pan out.
It was a messy job and I had to throw away my clothes when I was done, but now theres no leaks so it was all worth it. I used the GMPP "nascar" seal from Scroggins Dickey. I also went with the Fel-Pro rubber/steel grommeted 1 piece oil pan gasket and an Earls Performance rubber/steel grommet/steel framed valve cover gasket.
EDIT: I also used Hylomar on the seal block to engine black mating surfaces.
If you want to learn more about your car, this will go a long way as you will get much quality time :yesnod: under the front end.
You don't have to disconnect the tranny from the motor to replace the rear main engine seal? Also, If I use the dye to determine where the leak is comming from do you have to drain out the dye afterwards or is it safe to run with it in?
Dye won't hurt anything to run it in there.............if you use it in the engine, it'll help you find all of your oil leaks on your engine.
You are correct, only have to pull tranny to replace front tranny seal, don't have to pull to replace rear main seal..............I replaced my rear main seal, and all main and rod bearings along with new oil pump, camshaft, lifters, rocker arms, push rods, valve springs, valve guide seals, timing chain/gears, and Edelbrock intake manifold a few years ago.
That was the rear main seal. This is the FelPro one-piece oil pan gasket.
As to whether you should tackle the job yourself, please keep this in mind. The steering linkage has to be dropped and the front exhaust Y-pipe has to come off. If your exhaust manifold studs are old/iffy, or the Y-pipe connection to the extension pipe or catcon are frozen, the job can turn nasty on you very quickly. Here are a few pics.
This shows why the Y-pipe must come off to get the oil pan down. Very tight fit!