Weird Science

I'm stripping the car with a razor blade. I know tons of people will tell me using a chemical stripper is easier but my paint is comming off very nicely so I don't want to mess with the chemicals. I am taking off the top layer of paint. Under that is grey primer, then brown, then bare glass. I am going down to the grey primer. I probably will use chem stripper only on tight areas.

My question is, what do I use to fill the nicks. A couple go into the glass. I need a filler that will sitck to both the grey primer and fiberglass.

Thanks


[Modified by Weird Science, 6:43 PM 4/7/2003]

427V8

It depends on how deep the nicks are. If they are very shallow I'd use a good glazing putty. The local autoparts store ( a real one, not a checkers, look for one that sells paint ) should be able to supply one that works on glass.

if over 1/8" I'd use a filler made for Vettes...

stpman

How deep are the nicks?
are they too deep to be filled with a filling primer and block sand?
if yes then get a 2 part glazing putty.

Steve :steering:

Weird Science

The nicks are not deep. Except for maby 1, less than 1/8. I was considering just filling them with primer when I remembered a post about how the primer will shrink and show sand scratches, etc.. I got the technique dialed now and finished a 1/4 panel with no nicks. :cheers:

So I guess a good glazind putty is my best bet then? Would I be better off shooting the sealer first? That seems to be the order in Lars paper for fixing nicks, etc..

NHvette

:iagree:
... and Steve too - since the vette panel adhesive/filler is a 2 part compound.
The tubes of 'body putty' will eventually bleed out and show.

I have read that you should only take it down to the red primer - if possible.
You might consider sanding the gray stuff off and starting from there. That way
you won't sand into the glass and you'd get by with less sealer.

I'd ask lars. :seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 11:48 PM 4/7/2003]

Frank75

My paint was horrible before starting the strip process; pitting, cracking, falling out in large chunks - you name it. I took it all down using a blade, then sanding to the original factory primer in most cases, shot it with epoxy sealer, then used good 2-part filler for all the bad spots, including nicks made by the razor blade. Then I repeated the process after shooting K36 (primer). I found that taking the car outside in direct sunlight helped find all the little sanding scratches and stuff that were very hard to see inside. I reshot sealer over the area where I used filler. Take your time and don't be surprised if you miss spots: I probably went through 3 or 4 iterations of "**** - there's another one I missed".

Weird Science

That's the feedback I needed. Thanks for the replies. ok, here is the plan:
- Finish stripping with blade to grey primer
- Sand down to the red primer (did a small section, grey comes off easy) This will also elimate smaller nicks that only go through grey primer
- Do major bodywork (2 sections + luggage holes)
- Shoot sealer
- Use vette filler for nicks/ finish bodywork
- Get into sun and repete areas missed (Thanks for the tip Frank)
- Shoot K36
- block, prime,block,prime

Now I have a plan, only need a couple hunder hours to execute!

GTR1999

I'm right about where you are too. I have to strip an L88 hood and the rear panel then it's done as far as the old paint. I found using a heat gun works very good removing the paint with a razor. I wasplaning on sanding the car down to the 'glass instead of stopping at the red-not sure I would be able to not sand the red off anyway. Keep posting your progress as move along. :cheers:
Gary