Koz,
Paul has answered the questions very nicely. Personally for summer use I have never experienced a downside from not using a clearcoat: the wheels look very nice for the entire summer.

Paul,
They are not dips but tiny pits. Very much like tiny bubbles were introduced in the pouring/casting process. I think that I have a pic somewhere...In any case that wheel passed the trueness test today both side-to-side and up-and-down. I am going to use it. It will replace a wheel that is carrying 2.5 oz in one place and 6.5 oz in another. That is a lot of compensation for a flaw. I do not feel any consequences while driving but I KNOW that outrageous weight is on the wheel. And it irritates me.

*Edit*-I found the project pics. You can see the tiny pits in this pic.

*Edit2*-The pics are not going up. I will try later.

[Modified by paul79, 5:29 PM 4/11/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 5:30 PM 4/11/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 5:31 PM 4/11/2003]

 

I stopped at the auto parts store.. Would I use Acetone to strip off the acylic or paint thinner? The guy didn't know and I didn't want to take a chance on my aluminum rims.. .. Also, If I decided to put a clear coat back on is the clear coat acrylic in a spray can like plasti-kote good to use? Do you have to use the acetone or paint thinner to remove all the polish off before spraying or do you use something like the por-15 metal ready stuff to etch the surface. Thanks for all the help.. :cheers:

 

You have to use acetone. Paint thinner/varsol will not work. But neither will hurt the aluminum. And believe me you do not want to "etch" the surface. You want it highly polished but clean. Nail polish remover will do the trick. As to what clear coat to use I do not know as I prefer the uncoated look. My suggestion is to drop by a GM dealer bodyshop and pose that question. They do this type of work everyday.

BTW, pics are now working. Here are the tiny pits.



And here is the first (looks brutal I know) step in the restoration process to eventually get what you have seen in my earlier pics.




[Modified by paul79, 9:04 AM 4/12/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 9:08 AM 4/12/2003]

 

Don't poo-poo a coffee can. It can be worth 50hp!
http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html

 

Hi Paul,
Yup, those pits look like it's broken through the surface into the "honeycomb" part of the casting. Do you get chocolate bars called "Aero"? They are full of tiny air bubbles (so you're spending money on eating air!) with a thin layer of solid chocolate on the outside. Exactly the same structure as castings. Once those pits start appearing it can only get worse :(
The polishers I use for doing other peoples stuff told me that they can remove those pits. I think what they do is use a powerful floor mounted polisher & really press the work hard up to the mop. The heat generated locally melts the surface of the metal & fills the holes. It takes skill, only one guy there does it (he's built like an Ox) & it's expensive. I've never asked for it to be done as the idea of getting engine cases so hot that they partially melt makes me worry about warping etc.
Koz,
Do you need to have your wheels clearcoated? The shine is much better from the bare metal so, if it's not a daily driver or driven on salt covered roads, I'd recommend leaving them bare after polishing.
Paul

 

I think the wife has a new bottle of nail polish remover.. Wonder if she'd miss it. :lol: Actually I planned on not clear coating them BUT I wanted to know my options just in case. I'm still trying to find a polishing mop. I sent a note to Eastwood to see if they carry it. I want to get everything I need before starting..

Another question.. When you use the polishes they turn black as you rub them in. I've done the one wheel about 7 times with different steel whool and polish and then with a paper towel and polish and it always turns black? Any idea why? Is the black dirt? And what do you do when using a mop. Isn't it going to do the same thing? Load up with black polish.. Can they or do you wash them before each use?

 

Koz,
The black is normal when polishing aluminum. I don't know what it is (the oxide??). The polishing mops will also go black very quickly. This is also normal & should be left on the mop as it seems to polish better when loaded up with it & a mixture of polish. NB. using polishing mops will result in you getting smothered in the same black stuff! Be sure to wear a face mask while polishing.
Paul

 

That's what I thought but that would mean that I'm actually hitting the alluminum with the polish and not just polishing the acrylic paint layer.. right ?

Also, can the acetone casue any damage to the tires? Does it react or dislove rubber? :eek:

 

It certainly sounds like it. One polish I use seems to go black with whatever I use it on, so it's hard to say. If your wheels are in good shape I'd go over one thoroughly by hand with a good (very fine abrasive) metal polish (can you get Solvol Autosol? That's excellent stuff on aluminim) & see what it comes out like.
The clearcoat may not be original factory stuff. I've seen some lacquers (clearcoats) that a metal polish will just eat through with a hefty application of "elbow grease".
I don't know what acetone would do to rubber, but I wouldn't try it unless somebody says that it's OK..... those tires are all that holds you on the road!
:cheers:

 

Wow, gives me some ideas! :eek: