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I'm having allot of front end work done and will need an alignment. One time alignment is $50-$60 and a 3 year is $150. I drive her less than 5,000 miles per year.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Re: Alignment (Dk Met Grn 80 L82)
Make sure the alignment shop is "Vette Qualified" and that the tech isn't a newbie who never worked on one...and just wants to "set the toe and let it go"
I did brake and front end for years. Vettes were a causitive factor in my decision to lock up the tool box and get into Management!
Seriously, it will need a 4-wheel alignment and probably every year or 18 months if you drive a lot. 5K per year is not much. I would certainly shop their abilities and prices though. Tires are not cheap!
I've never heard of a three year alignment. If that means that once a year you bring it in and they tweak it. it might be a decent deal. On the other hand, if you aren't driving thru potholes or off road an alignment should last the life of the tires.
It means that they will align it as many times as needed during that period.
The GY dealer near my house has two guys that claim to have worked on vettes at some time with a $60 4 wheel alignment/ 1 time. The TK dealer has the $150/3years offer but I don't think they have anyone that is vette friendly.
If everything else is new and correct such as bushings and what not, an alignment should las t a long time. its important to mark the settings on the rear camber so you can put them back should you need to dis-assemble to work on various things. Ditto on the advice to get a vette knowledgable mechanic to do the alignment.
I certainly don't need an alignment every year. If you get the 3 year do you get to have it checked once a year or only if the car is acting strange.
Also a 4 wheel alignment usually doesn't include setting toe in the back. Setting toe involves removing or replacing shims in the trailing arms and that alone can run hundreds of dollars. So your 4 wheel only would involve camber on the back.
Well I went with local GY and it turned out to be $150 for the 4 wheel alignment. How straight should these cars hold. Both front and back are within specs after the alignment, and she has all 4 new BFG tires. She rides 100% better, but if I let go of the wheel there is a slight graze to the drivers side. Is this within normal acceptable limits for this car at this age???
I have a regular explorer with 90K miles never been aligned and drives perfectly straight if I let go the wheel. I know Apples and Oranges.
On the pull to the driver side, swap the front tires and see if the pull goes to the passenger side. If that is the case swap that tires with one of the back tires if they are all the same size.
Wherever you get the work done ask them first about how the equipment will affect the wheels themselves. What I mean is, I had a guy tell me that he could do the alignment, but that it might put some small marks in the aluminum wheels. I thanked him for telling me upfront and went somewhere else. Also had another guy tell me that he had his done, and they took their reference points from the inside surface of the wheels. Anybody ever heard of this?
The marks that the guy was talking about are from the hook type clamps that would have to be used to attach the measuring equipment to the wheel. They hook over the wheel between the bead and the tire and are driven in with a rubber mallet, then the clamp is tightened on the wheel. I doubt you would ever even notice any little marks from it. The other way to attach to the wheel is to use some studs that hook under the lip around the outside of the wheel, but our aluminum wheels don't have that, so we need to go with the hook method.
With regaurd to the slight pull, tire presure could be a factor. If one front tire is softer than the other, the car can pull to that side since the softer tire will create more rolling resistance. Also if you expect a perfectly aligned car to go perfectly straight when you let go of the wheel, the road surface must be level. Most roads fall to one shoulder or the other to help rain runoff. The car will usually drift slightly in the direction of the slope. Some roads are crowned in the center and fall to each side. Others have same fall, all to one side.
Like you I will not take my vet for anyone to align. I once had a guy come back from the TEST DRIVE to make sure my alignment was ok. He told me my motor had a stumple at 7000. He was bumping into the rev limiter. Never agian will someone take my car out alone.
Anyway if you are willing to spend about $200 you can get a descent alignment at home spending a few hours.
Their are some really good caster camber gages out there, along in an inexpensive laser lever.
The final thing you need and it can be home made is a toe gage.
YOU CAN NOT GET A DESCENT TOE WITH A TAPE MEASURE. A simple gage will do the job.
Buy the equipment and do it yourself.
We can talk more about this if you want .
Redid my whole front end over the winter. New tie rods, ball joints, bushings, idler arm etc. powder coated A-Arms and cleaned frame and painted with rust preventine paint. Have newer tires with less than 200 miles. Took it in and the shop said to do a proper job had to aline all four wheels. Did so and car drives staright and tight down road. Spent $145.00 for the aliment. :chevy :seeya
I did find a shop that can do a 4 wheel alignment for $69 using a computer. I am sure that the computer will align the car to whatever is in its program, but I want mine set up in accordance with the specs laid out in the VIP article I downloaded of the forum. If they can give me actual numeric values for toe and camber I will use them otherwise I am back to doing it myself.
Did you get the info on your do-it-yourself stuff off the web, a book, or just work from experience?
I got my experience from reading this forum, from hanging around a stock car race shop and from 40 years of setting up my own shop.
Sure you can get a alignment but how much time can they spend for $69? They have to make money and usually the kid running the alignment equipment is on a time schedule to get the next car in.
As long as the specs are within range he thinks he did a good job but you can be on the low side of the specs on one side and the high side on the other. Both are within specs but side to side they are out and that causes pull.
If you understand and buy some equipment that if taken car of lasts a lifetime you can do just as good or better.
Also he doesn't get to take your car for a joy ride where once he gets away from the shop he will try it out. At least insist on going along for the test drive.
You need a caster camber gage, a laser level and a toe gage and you are set to do an alignment.
On the alignment, front: caster camber toe.. You really should use the computer. As far as the "hooks" go, if you put a small peice of duct tape on the hooks, they will not mar your aluminum wheels. Ask them to do this, if they don't, go somewhere else.
On the rear, toe and camber. Could take a bit of time and your bushings need to be in good shape. Shims are a PIA.
You can download alignment specs from theVBP site:
I was quoted a price for computor 4-wheel alignment of $69. That would include setting up on machine and checking and adjusting, if nessisary, steering wheel center, front toe, and rear camber. They pointed out prior to the job that if I needed shims for either front caster and camber or rear toe, that there would be extra charges. Those charges would be determined by parts and hourly labor involved. The total bill when done came to $125. Make sure you ask them if the $69 includes shimming if nessisary. Mine needed shims removed in the front, but the rear was fine as it was.