When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have posted about this 2 - 3 months ago.. My clutch linkage (Z-bar or Cross Shaft) can be moved sideways. It's supposed to be tight.. I know that there's a spring that's supposed to be inside which might be damaged or missing and cause that the linkage isn't tight.. but I don't know.. I only know that the linkage is only supposed to pivot but not move sideways... Did anybody have a similar problem? What can I do to fix it?
Wish I could help but once you do get it fixed you better get some good video of you breaking into the 11's!!!
:thumbs:
I might be racing with or without the fixed clutch linkage this Friday... Maybe I get lucky and will be able to shift... Friday will be the last chance until December to get some decent cool temps... We might even get down into the low 60's on Friday night after a cold front will come through tonite... It might be the last real cold front until December... Cold weather is great for Racing...
I'm 100% certain that I will be in the 11's as soon as I'm able to shift...
I already had a 12.19 with a 1.75 60' time... My best 60' time so far was 1.591... which would have been already enough to hit 11's when I was running 12.19.... I just have to get in one good run without shifting problems...
Still enjoying that engine? I'm still waiting on mine. I just talked to Mark today and they are putting some developement Canfield heads on it and the first one they built dynoed at just over 500 hp and 500 ft-lbs!!! :eek:
I can't decide if I want to slap some drag radials on it and see if I can get some decent times. I know if I do I may have to spend more money on replacing broken parts. I'll probably try it first at the track with my street tires and see what I can do. If I can get some decent times I'll probably quit for a while.....but then again speed is addicting. We'll see.
OK, this thread hijacking is over, you may return to your regualarly scheduled programming. :cheers:
Still enjoying that engine? I'm still waiting on mine. I just talked to Mark today and they are putting some developement Canfield heads on it and the first one they built dynoed at just over 500 hp and 500 ft-lbs!!! :eek:
I can't decide if I want to slap some drag radials on it and see if I can get some decent times. I know if I do I may have to spend more money on replacing broken parts. I'll probably try it first at the track with my street tires and see what I can do. If I can get some decent times I'll probably quit for a while.....but then again speed is addicting. We'll see.
OK, this thread hijacking is over, you may return to your regualarly scheduled programming. :cheers:
I just drove the 68' over 700 miles last weekend.. The engine still runs as good as on the day that I got it...
GS is your ball stud screwed into the block, i have the same problem with mine. the threads in the block are messed up.Anyone have a cure for THIS. :confused:
GS is your ball stud screwed into the block, i have the same problem with mine. the threads in the block are messed up.Anyone have a cure for THIS. :confused:
The ball stud is screwed into the block.. That's not the problem...
The fix for a messed up thread would be a helicoil...
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Clutch linkage problems.. (GrandSportC3)
I remember some felt packing washers took up some space on my '74 I think behind the ball pivots. Also my replacement cross bar has a greese zerk to load the bar up and may contribute somewhat to stability. ;)
There isn't a spring in the Z-bar (bell crank) but there is supposed to be a large snap ring. On the frame rail side there is a nearly identical ball, as the one that threads into the block, in the bell crank. It has two nylon washers that act as a bearing. One inserts, then the ball goes in, then the next and finally a snap ring holds them all in. Once the snap ring is in there will be no side-to-side movement of the bell crank. Did you make sure the nut that tightens the ball stud on the frame side is tight? If it is then you may be missing the snap ring. Remove the linkage and the bell crank and disassemble it. There is a good chance the snap ring is gone or dislodged (or maybe the nylon bearings have disintegrated. Let us know what you find.
I remember some felt packing washers took up some space on my '74 I think behind the ball pivots. Also my replacement cross bar has a greese zerk to load the bar up and may contribute somewhat to stability. ;)
There are no zerks on mine... (at least I didn't notice any)
There isn't a spring in the Z-bar (bell crank) but there is supposed to be a large snap ring. On the frame rail side there is a nearly identical ball, as the one that threads into the block, in the bell crank. It has two nylon washers that act as a bearing. One inserts, then the ball goes in, then the next and finally a snap ring holds them all in. Once the snap ring is in there will be no side-to-side movement of the bell crank. Did you make sure the nut that tightens the ball stud on the frame side is tight? If it is then you may be missing the snap ring. Remove the linkage and the bell crank and disassemble it. There is a good chance the snap ring is gone or dislodged (or maybe the nylon bearings have disintegrated. Let us know what you find.
My assembly manual shows a spring inside the Z-bar :confused: :confused:
I will probably only disassemble it next week.. I will be out for the weekend and won't have time tomorrow or Friday... but I will keep you updated...
Olivier:
There is a spring that goes from Z-bar to the rod that hooks to the clutch fork, is that what you are referring to?
The Z-bar is greesable. When you say it moves side to side what do you mean? There should be a cushion that fits in with the Z-bar. There is a bracket on your frame rail where the Z-bar mounts, the cushion should go in between this bracket and the Z-bar. I would imagine some flat washers would work just as well at keeping the Z-bar from moving.
Good luck at the track, hope you crack out 11s. It's going to be another 2 weeks or so before I get my car straightened out to go to the track...I hope to be right there with you.
Olivier:
There is a spring that goes from Z-bar to the rod that hooks to the clutch fork, is that what you are referring to?
The Z-bar is greesable. When you say it moves side to side what do you mean? There should be a cushion that fits in with the Z-bar. There is a bracket on your frame rail where the Z-bar mounts, the cushion should go in between this bracket and the Z-bar. I would imagine some flat washers would work just as well at keeping the Z-bar from moving.
Good luck at the track, hope you crack out 11s. It's going to be another 2 weeks or so before I get my car straightened out to go to the track...I hope to be right there with you.
Thanks!! Great information.. I will get some washers and put them in there...
I hope that this will fix my problem.
Regarding to my quest for 11's.. I was actually thinking in replacing my fuel pump with a electric fuel pump which should be another 10 HP or so (approx. .1 on the track)... and get the car tuned... I have solid lifers but have never adjusted my rocker arms so far.. I don't know how to adjust them myself to tight lash... I have never done that.. I'm sure that this would give me another 10 HP or so... I have never had the car professionally tuned... I still think that I can make it into 11's .. just by being able to shift..
The only problem will be traction.. The track that I'm planning to run on doesn't have too good traction.. I will need a very long burnout to get some grip...
Olivier:
I have solid lifers but have never adjusted my rocker arms so far.. I don't know how to adjust them myself to tight lash... I have never done that.. I'm sure that this would give me another 10 HP or so..
You set a solid lifter with a feeler guage. You will need to get the lash specs on your cam to do that. Its pretty easy if you have pollylocks on your lifters. You just have to follow the order to set them with and use the lash setting supplied by the cam spec card. REmember to always set them on a worm motor.
Washers are ok for a temporary repair but that should not be a permanent fix. Did you use large (1/2" or so) washers and are they touching on the tube of the z-bar? If so you are getting metal-to-metal wear on the washers. The stud on the frame side has a flange that tightens up to the bracket. If washers interfere with that flange being tight then the entire z-bar will move front and back. So by fixing one problem you may create another. The nylon bearings (and snap ring) are what locate the z-bar and keep it from moving side to side.
You're 11-bound now, Olivier. Go get em! :steering:
Well - the track that I'm going to run on is a pretty slow track.. very little traction... On a good track - I usually get between 1.590's to 1.65 60' times.. On the track that I'm running tonite - I've never got a 60" time better than 1.75.... :( :(...