Rear end narrowing
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 229
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From: Knoxville/Wooster TN/OH
Rear end narrowing
I was pondering the today about perhaps putting some hugely wide tires on the back of my car. However that would require that the back end be narrowed. Being as I have no access to welding materials or the knowledge, I would have to hire some one to do it for me. What kind of place would do such a thing, how much should I expect to pay, and what would it entail?
[Modified by dudeskie, 1:32 AM 4/18/2003]
[Modified by dudeskie, 1:32 AM 4/18/2003]
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 16,416
Likes: 1
From: NC,USA
Re: Rear end narrowing (dudeskie)
I think it would screw up the suspension geometry... but if you went to a straight axle/coil over setup it'd be a piece of cake.
The closest thing that i have pondered is cutting the half shafts, getting a leaf spring cut down to size, and just sliding the whole outer spindle asembly closer to the diff.
Although Merlin is running a monster set of tires on the back of his, and i think the geometry is the same as stock! :cheers:
The closest thing that i have pondered is cutting the half shafts, getting a leaf spring cut down to size, and just sliding the whole outer spindle asembly closer to the diff.
Although Merlin is running a monster set of tires on the back of his, and i think the geometry is the same as stock! :cheers:
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,175
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From: State of Confusion
Re: Rear end narrowing (dudeskie)
What kind of place would do such a thing, how much should I expect to pay, and what would it entail?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 26
From: Clymer PA
Re: Rear end narrowing (dudeskie)
There is no reason to do this unless your motor is putting out some crazy horsepower (I'm talking like 700+ horsepower). If traction is a problem run a Mickey Thompson ET Street or perhaps Mickey Thompson Sportmans. Either of these tires will put the power to the ground. I'm running ET Streets on my 'Vette (about 500horsepower). With any little bit of heat in the tires they bite instantly. There is no spinning between 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd like I was used to with my radials. As soon as I punch it they are locked up solid.
I believe Norval is running regular radials that are 315/?/15s or something like that. At any rate my point is there is no reason to narrow your rear end or tub your car....there are plenty of tire choices that will keep you from spinning that will bolt right into your wheel well.
*EDIT*
For strength reasons as Glenn pointed out, I myself wouldn't mind have a Ford 9" under the back of my car. I just don't have the money and don't feel like hacking my car up like that.
[Modified by bence13_33, 9:53 PM 4/17/2003]
I believe Norval is running regular radials that are 315/?/15s or something like that. At any rate my point is there is no reason to narrow your rear end or tub your car....there are plenty of tire choices that will keep you from spinning that will bolt right into your wheel well.
*EDIT*
For strength reasons as Glenn pointed out, I myself wouldn't mind have a Ford 9" under the back of my car. I just don't have the money and don't feel like hacking my car up like that.
[Modified by bence13_33, 9:53 PM 4/17/2003]
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,508
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Re: Rear end narrowing (bence13_33)
For strength reasons as Glenn pointed out, I myself wouldn't mind have a Ford 9" under the back of my car. I just don't have the money and don't feel like hacking my car up like that.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 346
Likes: 33
From: OKC OK
Re: Rear end narrowing (Schmucker)
Schmucker here's something to think about. I "think" the easiest way to get a stronger IRS rear is using a 3-4 th gen F-Body 12 bolt center section. It already has a torque arm mount which makes attachment to the crossmember easier. Another option is the 9" ford. If you'll go to USA6X6.com. Look under the axle section, it's the last pic on the right. These guys already fab a 9" ford for an IRS setup. I'd post a link to usa6x6, but I don't know how.
Al
Al
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Rear end narrowing (bence13_33)
I am running 305's 15 on the back right now only because I couldn't find any 315 radials. I have the proper offset on the rims, offset trailing arms and the outer lip slightly modified.
It would not make sense to narrow the rearend? If you want to run bigger tire then this you run into the frame at about 11 ocklock in our cars. At 2 oclock there is lots of clearance.
My offset trailing arms have about 1 inch clearance when the tires are almost touching the frame. The rearend has nothing to do with it. Also the battery boxes would have to be destroyed and that is a problem too.
I have had MT ET streets and they hooked great, enough to go 10.28 but they look too racy for an old guy like me so I prefer the MT sportsman pro. Same wrinkle wall construction but full treat and almost the same bite.
I ran them in 12.5 x 28 x 15 with miner mods to the frame and lip.
They were centered in the wheel well.
This is not a good shot because the tire is tipped out at the top. Both upper and lower strut rods are removed and the tire is resting on the lower strut rod.
A ET street will give you more bite then you can use.
It would not make sense to narrow the rearend? If you want to run bigger tire then this you run into the frame at about 11 ocklock in our cars. At 2 oclock there is lots of clearance.
My offset trailing arms have about 1 inch clearance when the tires are almost touching the frame. The rearend has nothing to do with it. Also the battery boxes would have to be destroyed and that is a problem too.
I have had MT ET streets and they hooked great, enough to go 10.28 but they look too racy for an old guy like me so I prefer the MT sportsman pro. Same wrinkle wall construction but full treat and almost the same bite.
I ran them in 12.5 x 28 x 15 with miner mods to the frame and lip.
They were centered in the wheel well.
This is not a good shot because the tire is tipped out at the top. Both upper and lower strut rods are removed and the tire is resting on the lower strut rod.
A ET street will give you more bite then you can use.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,804
Likes: 1
From: OKC Oklahoma
Re: Rear end narrowing (norvalwilhelm)
I am running 305's 15 on the back right now only because I couldn't find any 315 radials. I have the proper offset on the rims, offset trailing arms and the outer lip slightly modified.
It would not make sense to narrow the rearend? If you want to run bigger tire then this you run into the frame at about 11 ocklock in our cars. At 2 oclock there is lots of clearance.
My offset trailing arms have about 1 inch clearance when the tires are almost touching the frame. The rearend has nothing to do with it. Also the battery boxes would have to be destroyed and that is a problem too.
I have had MT ET streets and they hooked great, enough to go 10.28 but they look too racy for an old guy like me so I prefer the MT sportsman pro. Same wrinkle wall construction but full treat and almost the same bite.
I ran them in 12.5 x 28 x 15 with miner mods to the frame and lip.
They were centered in the wheel well.
This is not a good shot because the tire is tipped out at the top. Both upper and lower strut rods are removed and the tire is resting on the lower strut rod.
A ET street will give you more bite then you can use.
It would not make sense to narrow the rearend? If you want to run bigger tire then this you run into the frame at about 11 ocklock in our cars. At 2 oclock there is lots of clearance.
My offset trailing arms have about 1 inch clearance when the tires are almost touching the frame. The rearend has nothing to do with it. Also the battery boxes would have to be destroyed and that is a problem too.
I have had MT ET streets and they hooked great, enough to go 10.28 but they look too racy for an old guy like me so I prefer the MT sportsman pro. Same wrinkle wall construction but full treat and almost the same bite.
I ran them in 12.5 x 28 x 15 with miner mods to the frame and lip.
They were centered in the wheel well.
This is not a good shot because the tire is tipped out at the top. Both upper and lower strut rods are removed and the tire is resting on the lower strut rod.
A ET street will give you more bite then you can use.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 229
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From: Knoxville/Wooster TN/OH
Re: Rear end narrowing (norvalwilhelm)
Hey Norval,
I like your setup, I just need some good traction and I was looking at possibilities. How much does it cost to prepare for the new wheels and tires. What needs to be done and would I be able to do it myself? Thanks.
I like your setup, I just need some good traction and I was looking at possibilities. How much does it cost to prepare for the new wheels and tires. What needs to be done and would I be able to do it myself? Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 16,416
Likes: 1
From: NC,USA
Re: Rear end narrowing (dudeskie)
If you were to get rid of the battery box... you could just throw it in the heater box, if ya didnt mind being cold during the winter. Either that or going to an ultima style and bolting it to the frame by the gastank... but i dont like the bomb idea that comes to mind :crazy:
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Rear end narrowing (ZD75blue)
Where is the heater box? I don't have a heater. I removed it years ago to make room for my 4 MDS boxes and a whole bank of relays.
Guys don't run anything off switches. Use relays and only use the switches to activate the relay.
Anyway back to the heater box, There is no room to mount a battery where the heater use to be. It would be a nightmare to try fabricating a battery box up there.
Guys don't run anything off switches. Use relays and only use the switches to activate the relay.
Anyway back to the heater box, There is no room to mount a battery where the heater use to be. It would be a nightmare to try fabricating a battery box up there.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Rear end narrowing (dudeskie)
I wanted to totally fill the wheel well so I decided that I would get 5 inch 8.5 inch wheels. It turned out that 5 inch was a little too much since it put the MT 12.5 x 28 x 15 into the frame so I need wheel spacers to move the tire out. So 4.5 inches of backspacing would be better.
I also narrowed the spring about 1.5 inches total. This is very easy to do and if any one is interested I could describ how to.
I made my own offset trailing arms and once agian anyone, anyone with a welder or a friend who can do a little welding for them can do it. Once again I could discrib how to.
The final thing I did was sand the outer lip down to about 1/2 it's original thinkness.
So with a narrowed spring, homemade offset trailing arms and modified lip I could install tires that actually measured 12.5 inch cross section by 28 inches tall under the fenders.
This shot also has the upper 6 link on it.
I also narrowed the spring about 1.5 inches total. This is very easy to do and if any one is interested I could describ how to.
I made my own offset trailing arms and once agian anyone, anyone with a welder or a friend who can do a little welding for them can do it. Once again I could discrib how to.
The final thing I did was sand the outer lip down to about 1/2 it's original thinkness.
So with a narrowed spring, homemade offset trailing arms and modified lip I could install tires that actually measured 12.5 inch cross section by 28 inches tall under the fenders.
This shot also has the upper 6 link on it.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Rear end narrowing (norvalwilhelm)
When this picture was taken I had the 12.50 x 28 MT's on. This tire measures an honest 12.5 inches cross section and it doesn't stick out nor rub the frame inside. The wheel well is full. :)
