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Temperature is not an issue with calipers. Use any paint you want but the brake fluid is another issue. I use silicone only because is doesn't attack paint.
VHT now makes a paint that is designed for calipers. This is what I used and so far it's holding up great. I purchased the paint from O'Reilly's. They didn't have it in stock, but they got it over night for no charge.
I have had good results with RustOleum Hard Hat paints. They are available in many colors, even some cool metallic ones like stainless, aluminium,.. and so on. I did my rock shields and the old calipers with that and a good load of DOT3 went over it. It held up very good (no fading, no discoloring, no peeling)
Norval, did you drill those holes in a drill press or by hand? I've seen a guy that did it on a CNC machine and it looks very very nice. He had the holes chamfered and drilled where the vent slots are )not in the vanes), looks like that's what you did too. Also looks like a LOT of work.
What are those scary looking wooden jack stands???
The holes are done on a milling machine with a dividing head. Each rotor lost 3 pounds. I tired to space them so they went between the slots.
I know it weakens the rotor but my rotors have been drilled forever and I have never had a problem.
I run organic pads and replace them yearly to save the rotors. In the picture the rotors don't look that nice but in real life the finish is perfect, no scratches or grooves.
These rotors came with the car 13 or 14 years ago. I just drilled, cleaned them up and shimmed them for zero runout.
Twin_Turbo,
The John Greenwood Vette Improvement Program article on brakes has a template for drilling C3 rotors. I think it's in the vettefaqs archive.
Those who followed the template reported good results.
Norval,
I'm totally ignorant about machine work.What is a dividing head? What type drill bit do I need for these rotors? Titanium? Carbide? or ?
Are your holes chamfered or not?
Thanks.
A dividing head is like taking the chuck off a lathe and fixing it to a plate so when you insert the workpiece is it held by the 3 jaws and sticking staight up in the air.
The plate is divided into 360 degrees very accurately and the chuck rotates around a center point on the plate . So if you want to drill holes every 5 degrees rotate the crank stopping every 5 degrees. Very accurate work
When I redrill rims I just set the radius for example chevy 4.57 inches divided by 2 for the radius and since there are 5 holes take 360 degrees divided by 5 or 72 degrees between holes.
I drill the first hole, rotate the handle 72 degrees and drill the next, and so on.
I am sure you have the same thing just call it something else.
flynhi I have fantastic brakes. I have a very powerful hydraboost, no proportioning valve, all new lines with stainless flex lines and yearly I replace the organic pads. The rotors are also in great shape.
The biggest change was the hydraboost and then the proportioning valve or rather the lack if one.
If the braking area goes down the braking force in psi goes up so they cancell.