Smart Struts & street/roadcourse alignment
Can anyone with Smart Strut experience help me out over in the Roadracing forum?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=546276
Thanks.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=546276
Thanks.
Team Owner






Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Here is your RR post
Hey guys, I'm going to bolt on my new Smart Strut bracket this weekend. Over the winter my car got a 340lb/in composite rear spring, Bilstein Sport shocks all around, and a 1.5" drop in the front via a trimming of the springs. Over 4th of July COMSCC has a couple of days at Watkins Glen and I'd like to bring The Beast this year since the C4 is gone and dad's running a Miata. (What the heck?!?!?!).
My question is in regards to setting up the Smart Struts. The directions say to start with the cam bolt set to the middle and play with it from there. Does anybody have any experience with this setup? Should I start there or go lower (or higher). Also, if there are any street/track alignment specs out there, I'd appreciate some numbers.
Last year I was running 2:24s on the long course at the Glen with a stock '91 6-speed L98. I'd like to come as close as I can to it this year with my '70 4-speed. I'm sure the 3.70 rear is going to severely limit top speed on the straights.
Thanks in advance.
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Vette Brakes & Products has the different baseline alignment settings for C-3's
I have found that all settings between cars really depend on the stiffness of the chassis and how much give you have in the suspension attachment points.
So if you have poly everything, new ball joints, HD trailing arms with all new stainless steel shims, new wheel bearings. That your camber and toe have much less changes even with wide sticky tires.
Install the S.S. in the mid area. Then take your car to a optical computer alignment shop. Set the front to something like Zero toe .75 deg neg camber and as much caster as it will hold. mine are 3.95 castor. Your older car might get 3.00
The rear set for Zero toe. It can only be done with shims on the front of the trailing arm. Camber try .60 deg neg.
Then you need a tire temp gauge and do 100 foot skid pan tests in each direction or hot laps at a track and measure the temp across the faces of the tires. Equal temp with correct pressure should measure nearly the same across the faces.
3.73 is pretty fast. My 4.11's were into the rev limiter on the main straight out here at just under 135 mph. All the trailer type racing Miatas might have got up to 100 mph on the main straight at thunder Hill S2000's might have got up to 105 mph. trailered C-5 Z06's with mods and race tires only get sub 120 mph.
What's your red line?
[Modified by gkull, 8:21 AM 4/25/2003]
Hey guys, I'm going to bolt on my new Smart Strut bracket this weekend. Over the winter my car got a 340lb/in composite rear spring, Bilstein Sport shocks all around, and a 1.5" drop in the front via a trimming of the springs. Over 4th of July COMSCC has a couple of days at Watkins Glen and I'd like to bring The Beast this year since the C4 is gone and dad's running a Miata. (What the heck?!?!?!).
My question is in regards to setting up the Smart Struts. The directions say to start with the cam bolt set to the middle and play with it from there. Does anybody have any experience with this setup? Should I start there or go lower (or higher). Also, if there are any street/track alignment specs out there, I'd appreciate some numbers.
Last year I was running 2:24s on the long course at the Glen with a stock '91 6-speed L98. I'd like to come as close as I can to it this year with my '70 4-speed. I'm sure the 3.70 rear is going to severely limit top speed on the straights.
Thanks in advance.
**************************************** **********
Vette Brakes & Products has the different baseline alignment settings for C-3's
I have found that all settings between cars really depend on the stiffness of the chassis and how much give you have in the suspension attachment points.
So if you have poly everything, new ball joints, HD trailing arms with all new stainless steel shims, new wheel bearings. That your camber and toe have much less changes even with wide sticky tires.
Install the S.S. in the mid area. Then take your car to a optical computer alignment shop. Set the front to something like Zero toe .75 deg neg camber and as much caster as it will hold. mine are 3.95 castor. Your older car might get 3.00
The rear set for Zero toe. It can only be done with shims on the front of the trailing arm. Camber try .60 deg neg.
Then you need a tire temp gauge and do 100 foot skid pan tests in each direction or hot laps at a track and measure the temp across the faces of the tires. Equal temp with correct pressure should measure nearly the same across the faces.
3.73 is pretty fast. My 4.11's were into the rev limiter on the main straight out here at just under 135 mph. All the trailer type racing Miatas might have got up to 100 mph on the main straight at thunder Hill S2000's might have got up to 105 mph. trailered C-5 Z06's with mods and race tires only get sub 120 mph.
What's your red line?
[Modified by gkull, 8:21 AM 4/25/2003]
3.73 is pretty fast. My 4.11's were into the rev limiter on the main straight out here at just under 135 mph. All the trailer type racing Miatas might have got up to 100 mph on the main straight at thunder Hill S2000's might have got up to 105 mph. trailered C-5 Z06's with mods and race tires only get sub 120 mph.
What's your red line?
What's your red line?
At Watkins Glen, ZO6s are doing 150+ on the back straight. In the '91, I could only get 120. Assuming I have the hp to pull it, 5800rpm in 4th gear is 126mph (255/60-15). Hmmm... I guess we'll see what it can do.
Thanks for the alignment specs.




