Rip off machine shop, I'll do it myself!
On a more kickazz note, I got some slightly used 8 month old used AFR 195s for a grand shipped. The new roller setup is all here too, I can't wait to get back on the road.
So is there a problem with putting the same rings back in and not honing it if it looks good and doesn't have many miles on it? The cam wiped a lobe and ruined the cam and main bearings. Do I need to unhang the pistons for cleaning? It wasn't blowing any smoke or anything when I pulled it out due to low oil pressure. Any recommendations as to what is necessary after a failure like this? Thanks for any replies
If you wiped out your main bearings, chances are you have particles flowing through your oil systes and in your oil galleys. I think if you don't pull it appart and get the block boiled, you may be looking at another rebuild down the road. Don't be penny wise in this case...do the job right, and find another machine shop, one competent to do the work.
Assembling the short block is not that big a deal, main thing is to compress the rings and orient the rings on the pistons per mfg. specs.
[Modified by GDaina, 2:08 AM 5/1/2003]
I don't see a need to remove each piston from it's connecting rod. Clean and then lube each real good. Also agree you've got to really make sure that the block is clean, and free of the metal particles from your previous cam lobe problem.
I don't see a need to remove each piston from it's connecting rod. Clean and then lube each real good. Also agree you've got to really make sure that the block is clean, and free of the metal particles from your previous cam lobe problem.
thouroughly cleaned out. After you get it back from them, I woudl blast it out
good with a pressure washer (car wash). Wipe down the machined surfaces
immediately - and proceed to blow the 'F' out of it with compressed air.
Then, spray it down with any kind of oil (WD40) and wipe it clean. Always
use paper towels !! Cotton towel lint will collect and clog your oil passages.
Paper towel lint breaks up and dissolves more readily in the oil.
I once got a block back from honing (wrapped in plastic).
I proceeded to assemble without washing it out. Well, apparently there
was some honing debris that was left in the oil passages. It all went straight
to the rear main bearing. Disassemble and reassemble again. :mad
[Modified by NHvette, 12:40 PM 5/1/2003]

Left cyl. done w/ above hone:
As for your rings. Yes, I would (and did) replace them. And, just for giggles and s**ts, try putting the old rings down into the bores before you get it re-honed. You might just be surprised to discover the kind of "quality control" used by some "professionals" in this arena.
My top rings, for example, ranged from .019" to .040" and all over the place in-between. And the gaps were not perpindicular--they were angled and very sloppy. It looked like the "professional" gapped those rings with a freakin' Dremel or something. Spec for the tops on that engine was/is .022"-.024" and you can bet your last dollar that's exactly what they are now.
If anyone in So. Cal. wants to know an engine builder NOT to use, just IM me...
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
This tool......Do you run it on a drill? How many times up and down the bore?....Looks like it did a nice job on that left bore. :thumbs: :flag :seeya Cappy














