Hi C4 guy here looking at C3 - 1968 convertible with hardtop. I have no idea about the C3 body. What should I look for? Problem areas? Car is in need of total restoration, no damage to the body, 62k original miles on title (engine is in a million pieces), no idea if #s match, looks like a 350. Did I mention TOTAL RESTORATION? :crazy: I have the means of doing this but I don't want something not worthy. Any ideas on $? Asking price is $4500 neg. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated! VIN # is 194678S426289. Anybody know where to go to decipher the VIN? Thanks a bunch!!!!!!

Paul


[Modified by my350tpi, 8:18 PM 5/10/2003]

 

Oh yes, it's worth it. Every penny. Make sure it's in reasonably good shape though, because you don't want a frame that is so far gone that you'll be shopping for another one. My 68 was a basket case and it cost $11,400.

The frame likes to rust out near the wheel wells. Look at the corners of the frame in front of the rear wheels first.

Check for cracked fiberglass. If it's original, it probably will have some stress cracks over the front fender humps, for example. No biggie. That's pretty common, but you want to get them fixed prior to any kind of paint job.

The engine is a 327 for that year, not a 350. The 350 didn't come out on the Corvette until 1969, even though the Camaro got that engine option earlier.
(Go figure). Why is it in a million pieces? You need to find out why the engine is disassembled and what its status is. If it is in the process of a rebuild, take the rotating assembly, block and heads to a machinist you trust, to check it out and make his recommendations on a rebuild, even if the machinework was already done.

At the very least, you should have hardenned valve seats installed in the heads, which will allow you to run pump gas. Even NCRS would probably look the other way for that kind of a modification...I would hope.

Also plan on going through the suspension and changing bushings and shocks, and perhaps springs if necessary. While you're at it, it's a good idea to have the rear trailing arms rebuilt with new wheel bearings installed.

Other than that, I'd say make sure all the electrical works without gremlins. The headlights and wiper door are operated by engine vacuum. If they don't work, or don't work well, I wouldn't worry too much about that. They are easily fixed.

Just check it over like any car, and as long as the frame and fiberglass is in good shape, $4500 is what you could call getting it for a song!

The 327 is a very very good engine. It's a little down on torque for a 3200 pound car, but it's not bad. Have a more modern cam installed and you can customize your torque curve. I always thought the 327 in my Corvette sounded just like a Ferarri engine. I really miss that engine note, now that I've gone with a big block.

 

The VIN is for the 26,289th 1968 model coupe built in the last month of production in Aug 68 with either a 327 (block ID 3914678) or 427 (block ID 3935439 used only for 430HP or 435HP or block ID 3916321 used for 390 or 400...but possibly 430 and 435 as well). Base price was $4,320.00 back then...if it's in pieces then I would expect the value to decline somewhat.

Perhaps a 1968 owner could chime in with details on what to look for. If it's a number matching engine then there will be the number 426289 stamped on the front passenger side of the block, right on top of the deck where the head bolts on.