Calling Jim Shea - TT problems
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Calling Jim Shea - TT problems
I'm trying to button things ups and I have two TT issues.
1. when out of the car or when hung loosely from the dash, all key functons work. After being pulled up tight to the dash, the key will not rotate to the lock position. What can be causing this?
2. I'm trying to connect the TT to a Steeroids and have discovered that the splined shaft on the steering column is about 1" shorter than my standard column. My TT is from a 74. What's up with this?
Thanks in advance for your help.
1. when out of the car or when hung loosely from the dash, all key functons work. After being pulled up tight to the dash, the key will not rotate to the lock position. What can be causing this?
2. I'm trying to connect the TT to a Steeroids and have discovered that the splined shaft on the steering column is about 1" shorter than my standard column. My TT is from a 74. What's up with this?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (flynhi)
1. Won't go to the lock position. I sounds as if the back drive lever on the lower end of the column is not being rotated to the full "UP" position. Are you hooking up the cable from the transmission to the column lower lever? Try pulling the lever all the way "UP" by hand. If you are not using the cable, wire the lever in the "UP" position.
2. All of the C3 steering columns from 1969 through 1982 (regardless if they are standard or T&T) have the same dimensions for the lower end of the column.
The lower steering shaft should be sticking out of the column lower bearing by 4.50 inches. If your shaft is shorter than that you will need to grip the shaft and pull it back out to the 4.50 dimension. Try not to damage the lower column bearing while extracting the steering shaft.
Let me know how you make out.
Jim Shea
[Modified by Jim Shea, 11:11 PM 5/21/2003]
2. All of the C3 steering columns from 1969 through 1982 (regardless if they are standard or T&T) have the same dimensions for the lower end of the column.
The lower steering shaft should be sticking out of the column lower bearing by 4.50 inches. If your shaft is shorter than that you will need to grip the shaft and pull it back out to the 4.50 dimension. Try not to damage the lower column bearing while extracting the steering shaft.
Let me know how you make out.
Jim Shea
[Modified by Jim Shea, 11:11 PM 5/21/2003]
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (Jim Shea)
Hi Jim,
Thanks once again for your help.
I'll check the lower lever arm.
I'm glad to hear that the shaft is the proper length. How should I grasp it to pull it out? Should I remove it from the car to pull on it?
Do I need to loosen something else to allow the shaft to extend further out?
Thanks once again for your help.
I'll check the lower lever arm.
I'm glad to hear that the shaft is the proper length. How should I grasp it to pull it out? Should I remove it from the car to pull on it?
Do I need to loosen something else to allow the shaft to extend further out?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (flynhi)
I am not sure exactly how to grasp the steering shaft to extend it. I know that a couple other Forum members had the same problem and had to extend their shafts as well. I know that it is quite congested down under the brake booster, so it may be a lot easier to extend the shaft if the column is out of the car.
The steering shaft is actually made of two pieces. A solid part up side the column and a hollow tube extending out of the lower end of the column. The two shafts are formed such that they can slide within each other. Plastic is injected at the factory at the interface between the two parts to lock them at a fixed length and also to prevent them from rattling against each other.
The shaft is designed to shear the plastic and telescope upon itself in the case of a severe frontal collision. The plastic can also be sheared by prying on the lower end of the column. The two shafts should really telescope quite smoothly but with years of rust on the parts, they may appear to be stuck.
The steering shaft is actually made of two pieces. A solid part up side the column and a hollow tube extending out of the lower end of the column. The two shafts are formed such that they can slide within each other. Plastic is injected at the factory at the interface between the two parts to lock them at a fixed length and also to prevent them from rattling against each other.
The shaft is designed to shear the plastic and telescope upon itself in the case of a severe frontal collision. The plastic can also be sheared by prying on the lower end of the column. The two shafts should really telescope quite smoothly but with years of rust on the parts, they may appear to be stuck.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (Jim Shea)
Hi Jim,
I forgot to mention that the column was recently rebuilt by Rick at Steering Columns Galore in NY. Hopefully it isn't rusted. Would any type of lube (WD-40, etc.) help?
I forgot to mention that the column was recently rebuilt by Rick at Steering Columns Galore in NY. Hopefully it isn't rusted. Would any type of lube (WD-40, etc.) help?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (flynhi)
Lube would probably help. But don't use WD40. WD40 is a cleaner - not a lubricant.
I used to spray WD40 on the track of my sliding glass patio door. I couldn't figure why the door would require such high force to slide within days of applying the WD40. After I applied some white grease to the rollers, the door slides easily now for almost a year.
I used to spray WD40 on the track of my sliding glass patio door. I couldn't figure why the door would require such high force to slide within days of applying the WD40. After I applied some white grease to the rollers, the door slides easily now for almost a year.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (Jim Shea)
Seems like I would need to apply the lube to the portion of the shaft that is inside the column. How do I access that area without completely disassembling the column?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (flynhi)
I think most of the rust that may be inhibiting the lower shaft from sliding is probably right there between the shaft and the lower bearing. However, if the column was recently rebuilt, rust is probably not the problem. There is a slight interference fit between the ID of the lower bearing and the OD of the steering shaft. In order for the lower shaft to telescope onto the upper shaft, a portion of the injected plastic has to shear. The sheared plastic between the upper and lower shafts may cause some binding as well.
This is a previous thread on this issue. You may want to try and contact MRVETTE or one of the other guys for information and/or their thoughts on this subject. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...651538#4651538
Jim Shea
[Modified by Jim Shea, 11:50 AM 5/22/2003]
This is a previous thread on this issue. You may want to try and contact MRVETTE or one of the other guys for information and/or their thoughts on this subject. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...651538#4651538
Jim Shea
[Modified by Jim Shea, 11:50 AM 5/22/2003]
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (Jim Shea)
Hi Jim,
I have tried extending the lower shaft from various positions using various tools with the column in the car to no avail. I will pull it out tonight and try again.
It may be necessary to partially disassemble the column to get this done. Can you direct me to the page and section of your three part TT series that focuses on this part of the column?
Thanks again for your help.
I have tried extending the lower shaft from various positions using various tools with the column in the car to no avail. I will pull it out tonight and try again.
It may be necessary to partially disassemble the column to get this done. Can you direct me to the page and section of your three part TT series that focuses on this part of the column?
Thanks again for your help.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (flynhi)
Flynhi, you might try putting vice grips on the column, ABOVE the serrated part where the couplings go...and give a few taps, maybe with the original coupling/flange for the old steering in place,....taps with shop hammer, or maybe a pry bar...I wouldn'g use a ton of force though, as the walls are fiberglass....MINE slides really easy...and does NOT have any slop in it...
GENE
GENE
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Calling Jim Shea - TT problems (Jim Shea)
Hi Jim,
Well, I got it done. I had to remove the column, stand it on the wheel end, attach the rag joint and whack it a couple of times with a 5lb sledge (gently) to extend the lower shaft.
Thanks for your input.
Now, on to the balance of the dash..........
Well, I got it done. I had to remove the column, stand it on the wheel end, attach the rag joint and whack it a couple of times with a 5lb sledge (gently) to extend the lower shaft.
Thanks for your input.
Now, on to the balance of the dash..........
