I finally started up the new motor. Once it got fuel it started right up and sounded pretty darn wicked. Once we got the idle and timing worked out well enough I started to let it run for 10 minutes to break the cam in. Well, after about 4 minutes it died and then wouldn't start anymore. There is no spark now. How can I go about troubleshooting this? I'm new to electronic digital ignition and know very little.
I've got the Crane HI-6 with it's matching coil and an MSD Billet distributor.
Please help, I'm in a cussing rage right now :cuss :cuss :mad :cuss

 

Make sure your plugs are not fouled. Mine did exactly this and I had platinum plugs that hardly lasted 20 minutes. They were arcing along the ceramic and not jumping the gap. Cheapo plugs are still working fine. (The coil is another inexpensive part to test if no spark at all.) I know others will be along to help you with distributor checking, etc. I just wanted to point out the plug culprit since it was baffeling and cheap to fix (after changing other more expensive parts -that I wanted to change anyway.) Good Luck Im sure you'll have it soon and be on to other problems :D

 

I'm pretty sure the spark isn't making it to the distributor. I had a timing gun hooked up and it doesn't light anymore. I pulled plug wire 3, connected it to an old plug and grounded it and no spark. I think I need to somehow check the coil or the ignition box. This is where I get stumped....I didn't do well in my electrical engineering classes :rolleyes:

 

This is a pretty good page--tells you step by step how to use a multimeter to test your ignition parts (coil, condenser, etc.). I'm dumb as a stump when it comes to electrical stuff, and I had no problem following this.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...e/ignition.htm

JB

 

OK, I did some checking with a multimeter. Going into the ignition box it's at 11.9volts. Out of the ignition box it is about 9.4v. Into the coil it is 9.4v. Coming out of the coil it is still 9.4v.
What the heck?

 

the only thing remotely similar I've experience with my Vette is I forgot to reattach the ground strap near the distributor sheild to the valve cover when I was doing a valve adjustment. Unattached, the car would not start. I reattached it and it fired right up. I didn't check for lack of spark, I knew what I forgot right away.

 

TTT

Wish I could help Travis, but I'm an electrical dummy myself. The least I can do is send it TTT. It will be interesting to hear what the prognosis is.

 

Checked it again and all the power source wires seem to be getting juice. I'm wondering if my battery is just too dead that once it starts cranking the ignition and coil aren't getting enough juice to finally pass a spark through the coil ignition wire. Sound viable?
Tomorrow I'll try charging the battery and see if anything changes.

 

I remembered last night that the Crane ignition box has an LED which does a diagnostics check and blinks a code when it senses problems. The manual says to turn the ignition on and then start the car. If you have problems check the LED and it should be blinking a code. If there is no blinking then there is a power problem and to check the wires providing power.

So I did this and at first I never saw any blinking. So that's when I checked voltages and it is getting power. So I tried it again and I did for a brief moment see a quick blink but it didn't keep repreating itself like the manual said it would. So maybe it is the battery???

Has anyone with the Crane HI-6 ever experienced something like this? And isn't there a way to take the Crane unit out of the equation?

 

I wish I could help more but I do think the 9 volt reading could be right. In searching for electrical answers for another car the shop told me that at some point ignition has a resistor to get it down to 9 volts. I don't know where in a vette this resistor is, but in a vw it is in the ignition coil, intentionally making the voltage out less than the voltage in.
Jim

 

I have a Crane HI6 box on mine. If you are not getting the LED lights check the battery to see if you are getting enough juice to the box. 11.9 is not much. I know it is a 12 volt system but you should have 12.5+ coming into the box. Also while you are cranking this will take even more power away from the 12 volt source (battery). Make sure you have a strong battery. I have had mine for 5 years now and never missed a beat to 7000+ RPM.
You should have 12+ volts on the main lead coming into the box. The other small red wire coming in does not need a full 12 volts. This is just telling the box that the car is on. The big red lead is where the unit is getting all its power from.


[Modified by Gordonm, 4:03 PM 6/20/2003]

 

Voice of experience here! One thing to always check on electrical problems is amperage. You might be getting the correct voltage but if you're not getting enough amps then you're still going to be SOL. If your amp meter is showing low amps, then its usually a grounding problem.

Please keep us posted on what you find out. :cheers:

 

In that case, what is normal or low as far as amperage?

 

Curious as why you mixed the crane with the MSD ProBillet? The ProBillet I bought for my vette my said you had to run an MSD box. May be nothing but could be something in the dist when a foul or in the coil. :confused:

 

No, you can run them this way. I talked to Summit and they said it was fine and I believe there are a few here that run that combination. I like the Pro Billet distributor but don't like their ignitions with the stupid pills. And I really like what I've heard about Crane's digital ignitions. I hope this doesn't turn out to be a burnt up ignition, that might change my opinion of Crane. :cry
I'm crossing my fingers that the battery is just too drained.

 

Travis,

I've got a brand new Duralast Gold(1000 cranking amps) battery if you want to borrow it to see if that is the problem. I bought it for the vette about a month ago and it's just sitting in the garage. Both side & top post mounts. No need in dumping money in a battery if that is not the problem.

Barry

 

Barry,
I appreciate your gracious offer but I already got mine re-charged. At AutoZone they will charge them for free and it's just down the street. Boy I hope this will fix the problem!

 

Check to make sure your box is grounded properly.

Call summit and tell them the diag LED is not blinking. Maybe they will send you a replacement. Electronics are great till they are broken.

 

I checked the wiring again and it seems my ground wire to the Crane ignition unit doesn't seem to want to ground. It shows about 9 to 11 volts when the ignition is turned to the run position.
?? :confused: ??

 

Travis,

I just went out and pulled all of my MSD instruction booklets(MSD6 & MSD Pro Billet 8572 Dist) and here's what they say about *No Spark*. By the way I have my ground on the starter since it is a direct link to the ground on the battery.... not on the frame.

Checking for Spark

If triggering the ignition with the White wire:

1) Make sure the ignition switch is in the "Off" position.
2) Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and set the terminal approximately 1/2" from ground.
3)Disconnect the MSD White wire from the distributor's points or ignition amplifier.
4)Turn the ignition to the On position. Do not crank the engine.
5)Tap the White wire to ground several times. Each time you pull the wire from ground, a spark should jump from the coil wire to ground. If spark is present, the ignition is working properly. If there is no spark skip to step 6 below.

If triggering with the Magnetic Pickup:
1)Make sure the ignition switch is in the "Off" position.
2)Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and set the terminal 1/2" from ground.
3)Disconnect the MSD magnetic pickup wires from the distributor.
4)Turn the igntion to the On position. Do not crank the engine.
5)With a small jumper wire, short the MSD's Green and Violet magnetic pickup wires together. Each time you break this short, a spark should jump from the coil wire to the ground. If spark is present, the ignition is working properly. If there is no spark skip to step 6 below.

6)If there is no spark:
A: Inspect all of the wiring.
B: Substitute another coil and repeat the test. If there is now spark, the coil is at fault.
C: If there is still no spark, check to make sure there is 12 volts on the small red wire from the MSD when the key is in the On position. If 12 volts is not present, find another switched 12 volt source and repeat the test.
D: If, after following the test procedures and inspecting all of the wiring, ther is still no spark, the MSD Ignition is in need of repair.

Here are two different set-up that might make sense to the above.




[Modified by bgrice, 11:19 AM 6/21/2003]