Jughead

Are the regular grinding stones sufficient to open up the intake ports? The heads are dead-on with the gasket, and the intake ports are only off about 1/8th inch---at the worst maybe 3/8 in one spot.

Do I just widen the intake openings in-line with the runners?

Thanks
Len

PatG

I use carbide bits as they will not load up as bad, especially on aluminum. If you use stone bits be sure to spray with WD40 often to help lessen the buildup of metal on the grinding surface. Either one is sufficient for porting. Also a air powered die drinder is best as it has plenty of power and you can control the speed.

Jughead

This is pretty much all I need to port.

Eddie 70

Looks like you are getting closer Len. I wish now I had done this when I put mine together. It never even dawned on me to do any kind of gasket/port matching. DUH.

Jughead

That's only because this month Eddie, I don't have a life. :lol: Ordinarily I'd just bolt the #$&*%@# thing together already! :lol: Even using the carbide bits, I may go thru 4-5 of them! Maybe I need to use a slower speed.

69 N.O.X. RATT

The bits and stones work a lot better with a little lube sprayed on them. Your home port job should be worth 5-10 Hp, tell your motor I said so :lol:

Jughead

Thanks. I ordered a carbide tip specifically for aluminum and that bit just ate thru the aluminum. Thanks for the tip.

All done with the gasket matching. Took about an hour or so. :thumbs:

Fevre

Have been following your build, sounds like you are doing it right and doing all the little things. Really takes inner fortitude to take the time and not just button up the m f'er. :thumbs: I need to follow your lead on my next engine. :yesnod:

gkull

True aluminum carbide bits don't come in all sizes. I just use a 1 in long cone shape bit and clean ou the aluminum on the wire brush end of my bench grinder. I never use stone bits.

Just make sure that transition @ one inch up into the port.

Jughead

Thanks, I'll check out the depth....didn't really notice but from memory, I'd say I went in about an inch.

Jughead

A running 350 in the car already allows me to take my time with the BB. :D I think if the engine bay was empty and just waiting for a transplant, my attitude would be different. :D

Twin_Turbo

Is it me or are those ports not even close in size and shape???? Looks like the right one is a good bit bigger 9or did you already work on that one? )

bence13_33

Twin Turbo:
Maybe it's a Torker II intake :confused: ? I ran a Torker II on my motor for a while and the ports were like that, some were smaller than others. I know the point behind the idea was to act kind of like a tune port motor. The smaller ports aided in port velocity to help the single plane run better on the street. Of course I threw all of there engineering out the window and just port matched the intake anyhow :lol: .

Jughead

No, that's a Weiand Stealth. The pic above is before I did my handy work. :D


[Modified by 1970 Stingray, 3:30 PM 7/1/2003]

Jvette73

I wish I would have caught this post earlier. I might have been able to save you some time and trouble. So now youve matched the intake ports exactly to the head ports. Thats all fine and dandy. But now you you must be absoultly sure when its all torqued down that the ports and gaskets are perfectly inline with each other. If they're slightly off, there will be a step as the A/F mixture passes from intake to head. When port matching intake, its not so important that they match exactly. The important thing is that there is no step from intake to head. Its OK for the intake ports to be smaller than the head ports. With this you have some room for error in alignment when its all torqued down. So when port matching intake to heads, if material needs to be removed, its usually from the head to enlarge the head port to prevent a step. Also, increasing just the mouth of the intake port doesnt nessisarily increase the flow of the intake. The gaskets can slide around a bit and the intake can slide front to back and side to side as its torqued. Thats why there is much less margin of error when the intake ports are slightly smaller than the head ports. Manifold manufacturers make then that way with this in mind. So if the ports are macthed exactly, how can one be sure that when its all bolted togeather, that nothing moved one way or the other slightly? When its smaller into larger, theres no step. Larger into smaller theres definatly a step. Exact same size, who knows how it all lines up in the end? So im not out to alarm you or say you messed up, but your margin of error is much smaller now. It could be increased by enlarging the gasket openings and head ports to make them slightly larger then the openings in the intake.

SmokedTires

Len get yourself some wax to apply to your cutting bit, it helps keep the bit from loading up while porting ;) .

ldyoung

As I read everyone's posts, I noticed that no one let you know that you don't have to go very deep into your intake. Don't have to go more more than 1/2". Keep us posted as to how everything works out! :cheers:

Jughead

Jvette73: I stayed within the inner marking of the gasket---should be no problem. I've read previously about it better that the intake be a little smaller.

Mike: I used Eastwoods paste. I think it worked better(less messy) than WD40 or other oil.

:thumbs:

Jvette73

[QUOTE]Jvette73: I stayed within the inner marking of the gasket---should be no problem. I've read previously about it better that the intake be a little smaller.

Good deal. its nice to have a little room as things can shift around a bit. Ill offer another tip for you. 3-M weatherstrip adheasive works great to glue the intake gaskets on the head before you drop the manifold on. Use a thin coat on head side and gasket side and let it set a bit. Then stick it on and it should stay put. :yesnod:

69stingray

I would be curious to see if your right foot can even feel any difference with the porting. Having the intake ports slighly smaller then the head/gasket ports may not be a bad thing.