anybody got any pics of how this thing is supposed to be mounted?

Im talking about the little switch that mounts to the carb somehow and activates the nitrous.

 

Aaron:
Are you thinking about juicing your motor? :) I know if I ran nitrous I would have 3 switches. I would have one to arm the system, one on the throttle so that it could only be used in the wide open throttle position and one on my shifter lever to manually control it. This setup would come in handy if you were running street tires, that way you could spray the motor once you get a good rolling start. Sorry I can't help you out with the pictures of the throttle switch.

 

i hear what your saying, but how does the third swich (the one on the shifter) stop the micro WOT switch? and yes i desperatly pics of the microswich setup

 

The normal way to hook nitrous up is with a relay, an arming switch perferably with a light or an external light and the micro switch on the carb.
The relay is hooked to a good supply of 12 volts and the other side of the 30 amp relay is hooked to the 2 solenoid. That takes care of the power to the solenoids.
Now the arming side. The switch with the light or external light is hooked to a keyed 12 volts. From the other side of the switch you run to the microswitch that is hooked to the carb in such a way that when the carb reaches wide open position the microswitch is triggered. So the 12 volts comes into the microswitch and out the other side to the relay. The relay gets the 12 volts and the other side is grounded.
A relay has a working contact and a energizing contact.
Now when you want to run nitrous open the bottle, turn on the arming switch and hopefully the light warns you the system is armed and now anytime you floor the car the microswitch closes which energizes the relay closing their contacts and the nitrous and gas solenoids are energized.
Hope this helps.
You have to rig the microswitch up some way that when the throttle is open the switch is closed.


[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 6:47 PM 6/21/2003]

 

Thanks guys. the wiring is done already. The solioids do open without any problems when the ingnition is on and the carb microswich it engaged.

My problem is that the microswich is mounted weird. i thought it would go right to the carb stud but the way it comes is strange. just hoping to see how some other people did it before i create my own way :smash:

thanks for all the tips. :cheers: Tomorrow i do the fuel part :smash:

 

Quickvet, How big of a shot are you going to use?

 

just 75. no more then 125. if i can get it to work. i will try out a 75 shot next friday at the track. if it dont work, i will not even bother trying again untill i get a seperate fuel system for the nitrous. i have run 12.6 before. so if some how i get the car to do that again i would like to run high elevens on a 75 shot

 

That little bracket that holds the micro switch is made to twist and turn to fit. I had to fab up a 90 degree bracket from the manifold to the micro switch bracket. Anyway it works. Don't waste the time on the 75 shot, it's to small. 50 you can barely feel, 75 you start to feel, 100 strange things start happening, 125 you start breaking the tires loose at just about any speed under 60 mph, 150 slicks required. Go with the force luke.... :smash:

 

i got slicks :D

vette74 (chris) where are you? i need pics

i dont want to have to get creative or anything :D

 

budman, instant message me or post the times you run with the nitrous vs. NA.

 

:smash:

 

I've never ran my car in the 1/4, only the 1/8th.

With the 100 shot I picked up.
.3 at 60 ft.
1.0 in the 1/8

The 125 shot
Launched at line (Alsmost hit the guard rail)
I flashed the tach at the 60 ft. (Time for slicks)
1.0 in the 1/8 hitting it at half track.

The 125 to 150 are just a waste on street tires.

Another example of the 150 shot. I talked to a guy running a V-8 Dodge Dakota and it runs the 14.8 without and 12.80 with juice and slicks.

 

nice. cant wait to see what i run.