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Noticed my upper rad hose is weeping so it may be that I have a big ole air pocket system causing the higher temp. I am going to do the old water down the carb trick. I think my valve stem seals are leaking a touch on few cyl. Again I am trying to get this thing to run as well as possible before I swap in a 383 and FI so trying no spend $ on parts that won't be used on the new eng. Plus I just like to f with stuff like when I was a kid and had half my christmas toys apart by the end of the year just to see how they worked and if I could get them to work better. :)
I am bound and determined to make this work, I switched back to the adv at idle and increased the base adv 2 degree which helped. I really like how cool, well maybe not cool by much less hot, the headers are when the vac adv is added at idle. I should shot a pyrometer at it and report the temp diff. I see no diff between running the vac adv ported or unported, once the vac signal drops the vac adv should go away and leave me with just int and mech adv. I am going to t off the vac line and see how much the vac drops when I hit it. I am going to bump it up another 2 degress at idle which should put me at 12 int, 26 mech and 14 vac for total of 52. I am curious as to if I still get the run on problem on shut down with 12 deg int adv and unported vac adv as I do when I have the vac adv running ported.
One thing the Fomula has over the vette is I can monitor a whole lot more with the Accel computer than I can with all the stuff I have for the vette which includs timing plus it pulls timing if I have a knock.
For those that give a rat's asz, I'll keep reporting any new info.
:cheers:
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Re: Using vac adv at idle. (Fevre)
What's this 52 degree stuff I thought at the big timing meeting a while back we decided 34-36 degrees was where we wanted to be at 3000 RPM :confused:
Are you saying you are at 52 degrees advance at 3000 RPM ?
On a brighter note I figured out why my car is dieseling. Stupid me took the distributor out a while ago and restabbed via the 'ol magic marker mark on the manifold.
I was going to retime later but I forgot all about it . So this is what happend seems I was aabout 5-7 degree on the light side, my motor runs best at about 17 degrees intial and I was down to 10. I do remember turning the idle up a tad to compensate, now the motor was still idling at 750RPM like before but the idle was actually higher to compensate for the retarded ( and I do mean retarded ) timing.
Anyway I set the intial back to 17 and the deiseling is gone :D
Remebber there is 14 degress of adv that is added when there is a vac signal, once I drop the hammer the vac signal drops to 0 and my timing is at 38 deg. The extra timing at cruise helps with gas mileage and also makes the eng run cooler.