Ok I have followed the instructions in both my AIM and off of corvettefaq.com. Both articles say to insert a flat tool into that narrow rectangular slot and push in the spring loaded tab. WHAT TAB?!!!! :cuss I have pushed and pushed and nothing seems to be releasing the cylinder. I have removed the entire sleeve that the cylinder is in and looked at from every angle and I don't see how to get it out. Any suggestions, PLEASE? :cry


[Modified by BlackRat, 8:22 AM 6/26/2003]


[Modified by BlackRat, 8:22 AM 6/26/2003]

 

I'm in the same boat so I'll bump it back up for ya.

 

Thanks. This is a real PITA!!! :smash:

 

Yep, I tried removing it on three seperate occassions and got fed up with it. My cylinder is really screwed up, the key isn't even in it anymore and it won't go into the locked position. Only off and run. But as a backup I have a hidden remote starter button and battery shutoff switch. I sure would like to fix that ignition cylinder though. :smash: :smash: :smash:

 

Mine is actually working. But I screwed up when removing the turn signal switch and took to much appart. :eek: Now I have the sleeve with the cylinder in it off and I can't get the gear and the teeth on the rod to line back up. :smash: So it looks like my only option is to remove the lock cylinder so I can slid the rod back up in there and put the sleeve back together. Then reinstall the lock cylinder. What a mess..... :crazy:

Wade

 

You two need to get in touch with Jim Shea, writer of the FAQ articles and steering wheel gru.

 

Henry, I have been following the instructions in his paper on corvettefaq.com but I can't get it to work. :confused:

Wade

 

Travis, I took Henry's advice and sent Jim Shea the following email. I will post his response when I get it.

If anyone else has some input on this please feel free to chime in.

I have been following your instructions on replacing the ignition cylinder in the column of my '71 and am having major problems and hoped you could help. Let me start by telling you what I have done. This whole process started when I went to replace the turn signal switch. I disconnected the switch from the harness and unscrewed it from the inside of the column. I the proceded to pull the wires up through the column and low and behold the connector turned sideways and got stuck. Now I know if I would have read your paper on this it could have been avoided if I would have taped the thing up so it wouldn't get stuck but I didn't see the paper till after the fact. :-). Anyway I thought that the only other way to get it out was to disconnect the sleeve that the ignition cylinder was in. This worked however I have not only pulled the rod loose from the gear on the end of the ignition cylinder but also that rod that has the spring on it fell out and I am not sure how it goes back in. But for now let me get back to the cylinder. I followed your paper on inserting a flat tool into the rectangular skinny slot and pushing the spring loaded tab in for the cylinder to release. However this is not happening for me. I do think that someone has replaced this before so maybe if it is possible they did it wrong. Being that I have the whole sleeve off and in my hand I have been able to look at it from every angle and just don't see a spring loaded tab. Can you help me with this please? Also can you give me some advice on the following questions.

1. Do I need to take the ignition cylinder out to get the teeth of the rod and gear to mesh correctly?
2. The rod on the back side that has the spring on it that I mentioned earlier. Does that spring compress a little and then the exposed part of the rod under the spring fit up into the "U" shaped peice attached to the ignition rod and rest between the inner portion of the bottom of the rod and the bottom side of the spring, then slide up through the whole in the sleeve?

Thanks for any and all help or advice that you can offer.

Wade

 

You guys sure are challenging!!!!
1). My latest paper posted at http://www.corvettefaq.com is entitled Std Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #1 and has a revision date of 20DEC2002. On page #8 of the paper there is a rather poor scan of a housing but it shows the vertical slot where you need to depress the lock cylinder locking wedge. The slot can have a thin die cast skin covering it so you may need to break through the skin in order to depress the locking wedge.

2). The pointed end of the lock bolt sticks up toward the steering wheel. Then the spring, then the lock bolt rests in the U-shaped receiver on the rack. The teeth on the rack are also pointing at the steering wheel. The rod attached to the rack extends down to the ignition cylinder.

You can imagine with the rod and rack installed in the column, you will find that the lock bolt is spring loaded up toward the steering wheel. When you put your key in the lock cylinder and rotate it to RUN; the plastic sector will rotate and move the rack away from the steering wheel and the rack will pull directly on the bolt moving it away from the steering wheel and unlock the steering.

3). You normally have to have the lock cylinder out of the housing (cylinder) so that you can rotate the plastic sector (gear) far enough to feed the rack back into position. However, you seem to have disassembled the rack from the housing and the lock bolt and spring (rod) from the rack. My question is -- With the lock cylinder still in the housing, how did you get them apart in the first place?

I will scan a couple pages of the Saginaw steering column manual that might help.

Jim Shea

 

You don't want to know.......... :D

Thanks for the help. I do want to see if I can clarify the lock rod though. So the rod rests in the "U" shaped clip that is attached to the ignition switch shaft correct? The tiny spring that is on the lock rod, do I squeeze it upwards and then fit the exposed area beneath the now compressed spring into the "U" shaped clip?

Thanks again for the help and would definately appreciate the diagrams.

:cheers:

Wade

 

The lock cylinder is out and I didn't break anything! :party: I tjink that I was pushing in the wrong rectangular slot. Got to hate when that happens. :D :lol: It is the really, really thin slot. I used one of the wife's steak knives :eek: Just want let her know about it :nono: While pushing in I used a flat blade screw driver wrapped with tape to gently pry the lock cylinder out from the out side. Now I just got to figure out this lock rod thing and I can put it all back together and hope to never ever do it again. :smash: Thought ya'll would like to know.

:cheers:
Wade

 

Cool, I hope I have your same luck.
:cheers:

 

That covering gave me fits for three frggin days.

 

Jim,
if you have the key can you take the lock cylinder out without taking apart the column?
thanks,
Mike

 

No! You must disassemble the column.

The old in-the-dash integral lock cylinder and ignition switch had a small hole in the face where you could insert a paper clip and with the key remove the lock cylinder.

Starting in 1969 the GM function locking steering column requires that you remove the steering wheel, hub, and lock plate; as well as move the turn signal switch up and out of the way in order to get at the locking tab (or the screw - 1979 and later) in order to remove the lock cylinder.

Some people have used a slam puller to shock the lock cylinder out of the dash. This procedure usually breaks the hardened tab that retains the 1969 through early 1979 lock cylinders. As you might guess, slamming the column is hard on the column parts and doesn't do your instrument panel any good either.

BTW, I have just submitted some new updated Disassembly and Repair papers to Terry Rudy's http://www.corvettefaq.com websight. They are Paper #1 and #3 for the T&T Column and Paper #1 for the Standard Column.

The T&T Paper #1 now includes some checks for loose pivot pins, loose tilt shoes, and loose support screws. Also some clarification as to removing and reinserting the lock cylinder into the column.

T&T Paper #3 now includes suggestions as to repairing loose pivot pins and loose tilt shoes. Also a procedure for testing and tightening the plastic tilt joint.

Standard Column Paper #1 now includes a more complete description as to how to remove and reinstall the lock cylinder.