Strut Rod Question - Help!
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Joined: Oct 2000
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Strut Rod Question - Help!
I changed my strut rods on my 74 last year and re-used my originals with the thin type replacement bushings. Well, it was a real bitch getting them on and it took some time to set the wheel camber. I just took a drive last night and my strut rod bracket bolts fell out and I was lucky to get home. I thought I torqued down those bolts good, but quess they needed much more or were stressed from years of use. I used the originals with lock washers. My first question is am I going to be able to jack up the bracket with the wheels up on blocks and line up the bolt holes? It looks like I will need to lift the bracket up to the rear? I do not want to disconnect the strut rod from the bracket since it was a bitch to twist it on. My next question is why these bolts loosened and whether I should have used new bolts. Right now my struts are both connected but are hanging down disconnected from the differential.
Thanks.
John
Thanks.
John
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 29
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From: Navarre FL
Re: Strut Rod Question - Help! (johnb74)
The best way that I have found it to replace strut rods is to jack the car up, put it on jack stands (on the frame). Use the jack to put pressure under the tires to get the strut rods into position (ensure you don't lift the car off the jack stands). As far as the bolts go I always replace old with new, it is just a good idea when you are dealing with a 25-30 year old car. Also, I use lock nuts on all suspension parts. I used adjustable strut rods that way I could get them into position easily and then adjust them. Good luck and I hope it works out.
:cheers:
:cheers:
Abby Normal
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 53,392
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From: Press "2" for English
Re: Strut Rod Question - Help! (johnb74)
HOLY CRAP! :eek: i'll bet that was scary! my diff is a little different than yours so i don't know it that well but one thing i would make it a point to check is for damage to the threads on the pumpkin. maybe you just didn't torque them down like you were supposed to but maybe you've got really sloppy threads too. you won't know until you check. definately would recommend lock washers and maybe even a bit of blue locktite.
one other thing you might want to check. i don't know how this could affect your problem but when i did my smart struts swap a couple months ago, i noticed the OEM rods actually had a slight angle on the ends. if you notice the inner pick-up point sits about 2" behind the outer pick-up point. the bushing ends are welded on to the strut rods with a slight angle to keep this from binding up. i didn't notice until just a while ago, you may want to check that.
one other thing you might want to check. i don't know how this could affect your problem but when i did my smart struts swap a couple months ago, i noticed the OEM rods actually had a slight angle on the ends. if you notice the inner pick-up point sits about 2" behind the outer pick-up point. the bushing ends are welded on to the strut rods with a slight angle to keep this from binding up. i didn't notice until just a while ago, you may want to check that.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,951
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From: Shore NJ
Re: Strut Rod Question - Help! (johnb74)
When I restored the entire rear area off my vette I installed the Vette Brakes
ajustable strut rods, no cams to deal with. They were easy to install and SOOO easy to adjust. I found the best way to install the rods was to remove the tires (extra weight on the entire rear to deal with) and you have more room. It's easier to put the rear frame on jack stands (block the front wheels) and you can remove the pressure on the spring ends with the floor jack. Also I used all grade#8 bolts, lock washers, and you can put a small dab of locktite on the threads. Make sure when you install any bushings to lube them inside with a high temperature grease (I use synthetic), this makes life alot easier if you ever have to disassemble those parts again. And torque all bolts to the correct lbs. :thumbs:
ajustable strut rods, no cams to deal with. They were easy to install and SOOO easy to adjust. I found the best way to install the rods was to remove the tires (extra weight on the entire rear to deal with) and you have more room. It's easier to put the rear frame on jack stands (block the front wheels) and you can remove the pressure on the spring ends with the floor jack. Also I used all grade#8 bolts, lock washers, and you can put a small dab of locktite on the threads. Make sure when you install any bushings to lube them inside with a high temperature grease (I use synthetic), this makes life alot easier if you ever have to disassemble those parts again. And torque all bolts to the correct lbs. :thumbs:
