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so here's the story. i got the vette from the shop and the guy had told me that i needed to change the driver actuator. i ordered one and it was backordered and i just took the car and was going to install it myself. so i was checking the operability of both headlights and heres what i find.
driver side: goes up, real slow, does not come back down.
passenger: goes up about 2 inches and stops but it i help it all the way up, does not come back down either.
so i was thinking (i got the actuator and its the wrong one, but since the passenger side doesnt work i might as well change it and see what happens) perhaps just both of them need changing? the super slowness makes me wonder about some other problem though. i dont have a problem with slow, if its normal.
P.S. i changed my wiper door actuator and it doesnt work at all still :skep:
(the good news is that i got my hanyes and chiltons from amazon today)
Very seldom does an entire actuator need to be changed. The most common failure 99% of the time is a leaking shaft seal. MUCH cheaper than an entire actuator and very do it yourself friendly.
Very seldom does an entire actuator need to be changed. The most common failure 99% of the time is a leaking shaft seal. MUCH cheaper than an entire actuator and very do it yourself friendly.
what would you suggest for a sealer? some kind of glue, or one of those screwy metal belt things?
i got to thinking, but cement was the only thing that came to mind, and i thought that just won't do. :jester
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Re: headlights and fun!!!! (ZiVvmO)
Sounds like to me that it might just be leaky actuator seals. Test your actuators with a mighty vac and see if your headlights will come up and down using the mighty vac. If they still exibit the same symptoms, then I would just use the witches hat seals. Very easy to replace. This is what I did to mine and they have been fast up and down. The seals(witches hats) are about $8 apiece. The accordian seals are about the same price. So for ~$35 you can be as good as new. Worked for me. :thumbs:
You can get an actuator shaft seal kit from any of the corvette vendors. Really easy to install.
I'm doing this exact same thing. Actually, I have the passenger-side actuator on my work bench right now, about to replace the seal and boot. I bought a complete hose kit from Docrebuild.com. I also had to replace the vacuum check valve and filter (got those from corvettecentral.com).
I have a question for you LAvetteman!! You seem like you might know a little about this subject. What is the best way to get the small **** off of the actuator shaft? I dont want to scar the shaft but the **** doesnt seem to want to screw off. Any suggestions? If you dont know, I will just start a new post about it.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Re: headlights and fun!!!! (jonny4523)
Jonny, grab the rod with some channel locks next to the rod end up next to the threads, and stick a phillips screwdriver in the end of the eye and unscrew it. I would probably soak the eye/threads in PB Blaster or something similiar for a little while beforehand.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Re: headlights and fun!!!! (jonny4523)
PB Blaster is a penetrating oil that should help to loosen the hold that has formed between the eye and the threaded rod. You can get it at Wally World.
Awesome. Something I'll definately try. What is in the actuator? If I accidently get some PB blaster on it, will it deteriate the actuator? And is PB blaster that offical brand name or will I be looking for some brand of PB blaster?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Re: headlights and fun!!!! (jonny4523)
PB Blaster is the brand name. You might try any of the auto parts chain stores too. Inside the actuator, I don't know what is in there. I am assuming a big rubber diaphragm that pushes the rod in or out depending on which port vacuum is applied at.
As Eddie said, use a good penetrating oil. I have never tried PB but its worth a try. I have always used AeroKroil by Kano Labs. You have to order it directly from them but it works great.
Good point about not getting anything into the actuator. Point the shaft to the ground and let the oil drip to the floor.
You might might check to see if you have enough vacuum since your wiper door actuator is also not working. You should be approx 18-20 Hg. You should be able to "test" close your lights by pulling the top hose off the black shaft and sucking on it. If you need to open your lights reach under and push them up. The second port on the shaft is your supply vacuum. The bottom hose opens your light and can be tested the same way as closing them. If you need to remove an actuator remove your from grill and pull it out through there. Make sure your hood is closed or you will scratch the paint. Oh ya, be carefull removing the eyelet from the actuator, the metal is soft and can brake very easily. You might want to put a bit of heat on it before twisting it. Good luck
If you need to remove an actuator remove your from grill and pull it out through there. Make sure your hood is closed or you will scratch the paint.
I dont see how it comes out of the grill. I took my hood off, and then pulled it out from there. Heck of alot easier for me. The actuator is right there by the opening. I could probably take it out with the hood on. Mine is lying on my work bench right now, waiting for the penetrating oil and the chance to take the eyelet off.
If you need to remove an actuator remove your from grill and pull it out through there. Make sure your hood is closed or you will scratch the paint.
I dont see how it comes out of the grill. I took my hood off, and then pulled it out from there. Heck of alot easier for me. The actuator is right there by the opening. I could probably take it out with the hood on. Mine is lying on my work bench right now, waiting for the penetrating oil and the chance to take the eyelet off.
i changed the actuator earlier today, and i took it throught the grill. close the hood, pull the actuator out of the housing, and weave your way and pull it out the front. it was pretty easy.
and no the eyelet was not difficult at all to get off. came right off.