I was going through my videotape collection and I saw an installment of Horsepower TV. Chuck and Joe were swapping a camshaft, timing chain, and intake manifold on a SB chevy engine. Chuck stated that adjusting valves with the intake manifold off is easy. He stated that all one has to do is bottom out the lifter on the cylinder you're working on and pull up and down on the pushrod. Once there is no more slack, give the nut a quarter turn and you're done. Is this true? Comments, thoughts are appreciated.



[Modified by Oldguard 7, 2:59 AM 7/1/2003]

 

Thats called "Cold Lashing" I believe. Maybe it works but I like to spend a exra few minutes and make sure it is done right.

 

Yes, it works (on hydraulic lifters). I have a friend who is a drag racer - builds about 12 engines a year for himself and others. He always does it this way - drag and street cars. Taught me to do it, too. I've set 3 SB Chevy's this way. Works fine.

Just make sure you're on the cam base circle (lifter all the way down, not partially lifting) when you make the adjustment.

:cheers:

 

It's the best way to make the initial adjustment on hydraulic lifters. I've been using it for 35 years. Never let me down. However... there are a few pitfalls.

1) The internal spring of the lifter and pre-existing hydraulic pressure both vary considerably between lifters and will determine how easily and how quickly the lifter plunger will "lock up" when you exert pressure on it with the pushrod. Sometimes the weight of the pushrod alone is enough to cause the plunger to move in 10 - 20 thousandths, and this will mess up your adjustment. A visual check is often necessary to make sure your lifter isn't playing games with you. This is true for new/old/cheap/expensive lifters. In this case, the intake must be off.

This variance in lifter back-pressure is what renders the "twisty-turny" method of adjustment useless and also dangerous.... an open valve at TDC of the compression stroke usually means engine damage, and this is often caused by over-tightening a rocker/lifter using the twisty-turny method. I have repaired many engines that were damaged by owners using the "twisty turny" method of lifter adjustment... from bent pushrods to cracked pistons.

2) Regardless of how accurate you do the adjustment, lifters still may need a "hot" adjustment. So... be prepared to go through the entire exercise again when you fire the engine up. If you're lucky, you won't need a hot adjustment. But it happens.

Tom

 

It's a question of "solid" lifters vs. "hydralic" lifters. You've probably got the hydralic type....less messy to do.....

 

One of our tricks. Intake on or off. Very easy for solids or hydraulic lifters before the engine is started. As your building it. Use this method { EO-IC } As the Exhuast starts to Open adjust the intake and as the Intake Closes adjust the exhaust. You can go right down the line for both sides. No splatter, No fus, no mess, button it up and go out and press on the gas. Works as well on periodic maintenance adjustments too. :thumbs: :D