Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Valley City Ohio
Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints
On a scale of 1-10, 1 being easy as pumping gas - 10 being rebuilding the tranny. How hard is it to replace the u-joints on the half shafts? :banghead: I have a 79. I have already replaced the drive shafts joints, but it is still makes a noise that sounds like it is coming from the side shafts. Is it the joints or maybe a bearing?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (dewayne4)
To me replacing U joints is easy. I do not like pressing them in or out. If you use a press the flange on the outer U joint is very fragile and will bend if excess force is used . I have a block that I bolted the flange to the first time I did one.
Now I use a torch to cut the X out of the ujoint then take a air chissel and walk the old caps off. I then clean the cups with a small flapper wheel, deburr with a file, lubricate, clean the groove and put the half shaft in the vise and using a small brass hammer walk the new joint into place.'
To me if you press the new joint on with too much force you are deforming the cap and it is no longer round and will lead a short life.
Most of my u joints are almost finger tight when installed.
Now I use a torch to cut the X out of the ujoint then take a air chissel and walk the old caps off. I then clean the cups with a small flapper wheel, deburr with a file, lubricate, clean the groove and put the half shaft in the vise and using a small brass hammer walk the new joint into place.'
To me if you press the new joint on with too much force you are deforming the cap and it is no longer round and will lead a short life.
Most of my u joints are almost finger tight when installed.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,114
Likes: 3,900
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (dewayne4)
I did a set of 1/2 shafts yesterday using the torch method for the first time. I usually use a press and backing plate. They weren't hard to remove this way but I haven't installed the spicers yet. I wash them then use POR15 metal ready, POR15 black, then top coat with cast blast so it adds time to the job. They look pretty good though when I'm done. I use a vise to start them then seat them in the press.
If you have a press or torch not bad but if you try them in just a vise you may have a hard time.
Good luck,
Gary
If you have a press or torch not bad but if you try them in just a vise you may have a hard time.
Good luck,
Gary
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (gtr1999)
I think it kindof depends on the condition of your current u-joints. I gave up with mine and didn't want to warp/break/twist anything so I ended up taking them to a driveshaft shop and they installed and balanced them for me. If this tells you anything, I just did a complete engine swap and I would rate the swap easier than correctly replacing u-joints. Sure, you might be able to get it done but it's easy to mess the half shafts up. At least that was my experience.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 912
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
St. Jude Contributor '03 & '04
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (tshort)
:iagree:
with tshsort.
After hassling with them a couple days, I let my local driveshaft man install them.
$10 apiece.
with tshsort.
After hassling with them a couple days, I let my local driveshaft man install them.
$10 apiece.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,310
Likes: 1
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (dewayne4)
I think they're a total PITB; probably an 8 (the driveshaft was probably a 2).
But, I didn't torch mine out, I used a drift pin and hammer :banghead:
What a pain. Even with generous doses of penetrating fluid, the caps were still stuck pretty bad.
I finally got it done, but it was a lot of work.
Taking the halfshafts out is not bad at all. If you can find a shop that you trust & will do the job for a reasonable price, I'd go that way (I will go that way if there's a next time for me).
Good Luck.
OH, if you've got noise back there and you've never, or not recently, changed the differential fluid (& posi additive), I'd do that first. It can't hurt, and it may save you some grief. :yesnod:
[Modified by jerryp58, 6:51 AM 7/7/2003]
But, I didn't torch mine out, I used a drift pin and hammer :banghead:
What a pain. Even with generous doses of penetrating fluid, the caps were still stuck pretty bad.
I finally got it done, but it was a lot of work.
Taking the halfshafts out is not bad at all. If you can find a shop that you trust & will do the job for a reasonable price, I'd go that way (I will go that way if there's a next time for me).
Good Luck.
OH, if you've got noise back there and you've never, or not recently, changed the differential fluid (& posi additive), I'd do that first. It can't hurt, and it may save you some grief. :yesnod:
[Modified by jerryp58, 6:51 AM 7/7/2003]
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
7 Bolt-On Upgrades From Extreme Online Store to Level Up Your C6 Corvette
Pouria Savadkouei
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 21,415
Likes: 451
From: Massillon,Ohio USA
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (norvalwilhelm)
To me replacing U joints is easy. I do not like pressing them in or out. If you use a press the flange on the outer U joint is very fragile and will bend if excess force is used . I have a block that I bolted the flange to the first time I did one.
Now I use a torch to cut the X out of the ujoint then take a air chissel and walk the old caps off. I then clean the cups with a small flapper wheel, deburr with a file, lubricate, clean the groove and put the half shaft in the vise and using a small brass hammer walk the new joint into place.'
To me if you press the new joint on with too much force you are deforming the cap and it is no longer round and will lead a short life.
Most of my u joints are almost finger tight when installed.
Now I use a torch to cut the X out of the ujoint then take a air chissel and walk the old caps off. I then clean the cups with a small flapper wheel, deburr with a file, lubricate, clean the groove and put the half shaft in the vise and using a small brass hammer walk the new joint into place.'
To me if you press the new joint on with too much force you are deforming the cap and it is no longer round and will lead a short life.
Most of my u joints are almost finger tight when installed.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (dewayne4)
I have pounded in and out with sockets as punches, some pretty nasty 1/2 shafts, and yeh, it's work, but I"v never broken anything....just takes a solid hammer...I use a 3 lbs hand sledge...impact sockets, and a 6" bench vice....
I take plumbers polishing tape...like they clean copper pipe with before soldering it.....and burnish the crap out of the loops before pressing new stuff in....I just use the vice....
GENE
I take plumbers polishing tape...like they clean copper pipe with before soldering it.....and burnish the crap out of the loops before pressing new stuff in....I just use the vice....
GENE
Pro
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
From: Now Frozen in Michigan
Re: Replacing 1/2 shafts - U joints (dewayne4)
To replace U-joints, I've used a vise and impact sockets for years. You just have to watch that the body 'X' of the U-joint doesn't crash into the shaft yoke, or you'll damage it. Soak 'em real good in penitrating oil several days ahead and keep 'em soaked.
On a scale of 1-10, I'd say between a 2 & 3. Do one, and it gets easier from there. :smash:
On a scale of 1-10, I'd say between a 2 & 3. Do one, and it gets easier from there. :smash: