A/C Rebuild
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 144
Likes: 14
From: Central FL
A/C Rebuild
I decided to get my A/C working. I replaced the condenser, evaporator, compressor, orifice valve, accumulator, and main hoses. In the process, I discovered the heater core leaking so I replaced that along with the hoses and valve. I converted the whole thing to R134. I also had to replace the outer blower motor box as Bubba the bodyman had plastered it with 20 pounds of bondo to seal up some cracks. I finally charged the thing up and now find the rear compressor seals leak. Oil drips out from them and the R134 excapes overnight. I tried different seals that came with the compressor and have had no luck. I have my own A/C vacuum pump and charging hoses, so it only costs me for the freon. Any advice as to how I can get those seals to hold the charge? :chevy
[Modified by 82X-FireVette, 8:34 PM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by 82X-FireVette, 8:34 PM 7/14/2003]
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 1
From: San Diego, CA Website: ChrisMitchell.us
Re: A/C Rebuild (82X-FireVette)
I read a recent post about this before, though I cant rember the solution that was found. I think it had something to do with making sure everything was oiled properly, and putting oil on the seals during install. Do a search and you will find something.
:smash:
:smash:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 3
From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
Re: A/C Rebuild (77Dream)
you should definitely dip the seals in some refrigerant oil before installing them. Make sure you have R134 tolerant orings, I think they are supposed to be a different color other than black, mine are green.
Pro
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 749
Likes: 0
From: Perth,Western Australia,Australia
Re: A/C Rebuild (82X-FireVette)
When I had my compressor overhauled,they gave me two seals,which I used,could not get them to seal at all.It turns out that the correct seals look like 4mm (1/8") thick metal washers with a neoprene centre insert.The ones they gave me were half the thickness.Problem solved.Its always a good idea to pressure test the system with nitrogen to 175psi if you can get you hands on a bottle,saves wasting gas,& leaks show up straight away.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 144
Likes: 14
From: Central FL
Re: A/C Rebuild (Fleetwood)
Thanks for your help. The compressor came with several of those seals. The intake port is not as deep as the discharge port on the compressor and the manifold block is flat. I have to use two different thickness washer type seals to get the things to line up parallel. I'm using the thickest seals, green and red. They also gave me some extensions that you press fit onto the manifold. I might add one of the extensions to the deeper side and see if that helps. It may support the thicker seal better. The instructions that came with the compressor were very poor. That's a great idea about using the Nitrogen. I'll give that a try. :chevy
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 144
Likes: 14
From: Central FL
Re: A/C Rebuild (82X-FireVette)
I found the problem tonight. I had used two 5/8 washer seals of different thicknesses. This made the manifold block parallel to the compressor, which is correct. I found that the suction port uses a 3/4 inch washer seal and the discharge port uses a 5/8 inch thicker washer seal. I installed both, torqued the mounting bolt to 25 foot pounds and vacuumed the system. It is holding 29 inches so far, which is much longer than before. I'll leave it 'til tomorow and then charge it if it is still holding vacuum. The instructions state not to oil those two seals. I did oil all the rest of the o-rings, though. :chevy
