kick down switch connector for '73 TH400
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 389
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From: san diego ca
Re: kick down switch connector for '73 TH400 (redwingvette)
The purpose of the "flap" is to let cool air in to help increase power on accelloration. To have it open all the time would be a good thing for performance. You can see if it opens by opening the hood and looking in there while someone steps on the gas pedel.
Since I'm asking stupid questions anyway...Jvette73 mentioned doing this removing the flap and plugging the snorkels. Where are the snorkels? Should I know this already?
Thanks,
John.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 4,004
Likes: 2
From: Severna Park Md
Re: kick down switch connector for '73 TH400 (johnnybrewmeister)
The engine need not be running to check the operation of the cowl flap. But the ignition key must be in the run position since the flap is operated by an electric solonoid controlled by the pedal switch, and that switch is only energized when the key is on. I removed mine to clear a more un-ocstructed path for incomming air. Even if the flap is open its still in the way and could cause turbulance or blockage to a certian degree.
The snorkels are the inlets in the base that would allow hot air from under the hood to enter the breather. Heres a pic of mine blocked with sheet metal.
[Modified by Jvette73, 5:28 AM 8/13/2003]
The snorkels are the inlets in the base that would allow hot air from under the hood to enter the breather. Heres a pic of mine blocked with sheet metal.
[Modified by Jvette73, 5:28 AM 8/13/2003]
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 9
From: Niskayuna NY
c3 th400 kickdown problems
Hello All!
After reading this forum, I felt well equipped to troubleshoot my car's inability to kickdown. I bought the car 3 years ago, but knew the engine was tired. I limped along till this year, when I put in a crate (I will rebuild the original slowly and carefully, when time allows). So, the car running poorly was something I was used to. After the new motor, new carb, etc - still no kicking down. So...
I managed to squeeze myself under the steering wheel, and viewed the switch that is triggered by the gas pedal. I pushed the gas pedal down to the floor, but found that even when doing this, the switch still had more than a quarter inch or travel distance left. Put the key in and turned to the on position (without starting the car), and manually operated the switch. I heard a clicking coming from the cowl area, so I knew the switch was (at least somewhat) functional. Tried bending the gas pedal arm slightly, but still no good. I read the forum, and also spoke via private message to Tom73, who told me that he added another piece of hose to the switch, to take up the additional space. When looking at mine, I knew a single piece of hose would not push the switch all the way. So...
I somehow managed to put a hose clamp on the armature of the switch. I positioned it so that the 'screw part' of the hoseclamp was able to make direct contact with the gas pedal arm when I stepped on the gas. I tightened it up, and squeezed myself out from under the dash. I turned the key to the ON position, and tested my work, the cowl still clicked.
I got under the car, and saw the wire still hooked up. I took the car out, and VOILA!!! The car kicks down! It works great. I forgot how fun a c3 can be, when it runs well!
A photo of the kickdown switch located under the dash can be found here
http://www.americanclassic.com/Googl...70NOS-1970.htm
The gas pedal arm will push on the rounded section of the switch, and push it all the way. Using something like another piece of hose over this rounded area, or, in my case, a hose clamp, took up the slack and made things great!
Cheers, and happy kicking (down).
AMAJR316
Arnold M Abate Jr 1973 Corvette Stingray
After reading this forum, I felt well equipped to troubleshoot my car's inability to kickdown. I bought the car 3 years ago, but knew the engine was tired. I limped along till this year, when I put in a crate (I will rebuild the original slowly and carefully, when time allows). So, the car running poorly was something I was used to. After the new motor, new carb, etc - still no kicking down. So...
I managed to squeeze myself under the steering wheel, and viewed the switch that is triggered by the gas pedal. I pushed the gas pedal down to the floor, but found that even when doing this, the switch still had more than a quarter inch or travel distance left. Put the key in and turned to the on position (without starting the car), and manually operated the switch. I heard a clicking coming from the cowl area, so I knew the switch was (at least somewhat) functional. Tried bending the gas pedal arm slightly, but still no good. I read the forum, and also spoke via private message to Tom73, who told me that he added another piece of hose to the switch, to take up the additional space. When looking at mine, I knew a single piece of hose would not push the switch all the way. So...
I somehow managed to put a hose clamp on the armature of the switch. I positioned it so that the 'screw part' of the hoseclamp was able to make direct contact with the gas pedal arm when I stepped on the gas. I tightened it up, and squeezed myself out from under the dash. I turned the key to the ON position, and tested my work, the cowl still clicked.
I got under the car, and saw the wire still hooked up. I took the car out, and VOILA!!! The car kicks down! It works great. I forgot how fun a c3 can be, when it runs well!
A photo of the kickdown switch located under the dash can be found here
http://www.americanclassic.com/Googl...70NOS-1970.htm
The gas pedal arm will push on the rounded section of the switch, and push it all the way. Using something like another piece of hose over this rounded area, or, in my case, a hose clamp, took up the slack and made things great!
Cheers, and happy kicking (down).
AMAJR316
Arnold M Abate Jr 1973 Corvette Stingray
