'75 differential yoke
The left yoke has a c-ring and the right does not even have a slot for it. Is it supposed to?
The second problem is that the inside end of the yoke has been free to bang into whatever is stopping it on the inside - a rod of some sort about 1" D. this seems to have mushroomed the end, though it is not noticeable. THe thing will not slie out, though. It is supposed to slide out once the (non-existant) c-ring is off, right?
Third issue. I plead ignorance. How do I free up the positraction to rotate the yoke - the other one - to get to the c-ring. The posi clutch prevents me from rotating the yokes in different directions or at different speeds.
HELP. :confused:
The center pin in the posi case (which the toke butt face rides against) is eaten away too and when burred can be a major pita to take out. There's 2 clips on that pin also. The yoke will slide out, just pull it hard. Because the end is worn it's mishroomed too and gets caught in the spline grooves.
Why do you want to rotate the yoke? just take the driveshaft off and rotate the whole posi case by turning the yoke.
Here's the yokes:

both have a groove as you can see.
Here's the center pin (this is an 82 alu diff, it's slightly different in that it uses locking tabs instead of a spring loaded plate to hold the clutches)

You can pull your yokes to the point where they get caught in the spline grooves seen here:

Marck
[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 3:15 PM 8/24/2003]
...redvetracr
Drive out the side yoke with a brass drift. The problem with worn yokes is the metal that was ground down has no place to go but into your oil, then the bearings. Some people just install new yokes then replace the rear end. I like to rebuild it using a kit.
If you have an engine stand you can mount the differential to it by the strut rod bracket holes.
Good luck,
Gary
[Modified by gtr1999, 5:15 PM 8/24/2003]













