trailing arm bolts
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 304
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From: Corinth Tx
trailing arm bolts
:mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad
does anyone know any tricks in removing the trailing arm bolt
i have the castle nut off and can get a socket on the bolt and turn it but can not back the bolt out i have tried hitting it with a hammer and nothing is working.
:mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad
does anyone know any tricks in removing the trailing arm bolt
i have the castle nut off and can get a socket on the bolt and turn it but can not back the bolt out i have tried hitting it with a hammer and nothing is working.
:mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad :mad
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Corinth Tx
Re: trailing arm bolts (Simul8)
i can not pull the shims and that is why i need to take it out
the shims that are in there are bolted in they do not have a slot i have some that do and need to put those in so i can get it aligned
the shims that are in there are bolted in they do not have a slot i have some that do and need to put those in so i can get it aligned
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,041
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Re: trailing arm bolts (dewcustom)
Put the trailing arm up on a jackstand so it's not hanging by the bolt. Spray the bolt with Liquid Wrench, come back tomorrow and spray them again, return on third day and knock the bolts out. You may need an offset bar in the wheelwell to hit solidly on the bolt ends.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 9,662
Likes: 7
From: Semper ubi, sub ubi
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: trailing arm bolts (dewcustom)
Try some PB Blaster or other penetrant, spray the nut side and into the shims, really soak everything. The since the bolt turns it probably isn't rust seized to the shims, but it is probably really corroded. Try taking a long chisel and pound on the shims on the outside of the TA. Spray in more penetrant and wait a few days, re-soaking everything every day. Turning the bolt while you spray couldn't hurt anything either.
The real problem is that there isn't much room to pound on the end on the bolt to push it through into the frame side. If you get it pushed in where the end is flush to the TA, then get a long screw driver or some other kind of rod that you can use to push it through and tap on with a hammer.
It might take a bunch of work, but you should be able to get it out without a Sawzall....but, if it doesn't then be prepared for a long session of breaking Sawzall blades.
The real problem is that there isn't much room to pound on the end on the bolt to push it through into the frame side. If you get it pushed in where the end is flush to the TA, then get a long screw driver or some other kind of rod that you can use to push it through and tap on with a hammer.
It might take a bunch of work, but you should be able to get it out without a Sawzall....but, if it doesn't then be prepared for a long session of breaking Sawzall blades.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 11
From: Schaumburg IL
Re: trailing arm bolts (1979toy)
What the last post said is the way to go. Soak soak them.
I then used a very large allen wrench about 1/2" in diameter. Put the short end on the bolt tip and hit it with a hammer to move it into the cavity about 1". Then I used an 10" x 5/8" bolt (they have them at the hardware store) and drove the t-arm bolt the majority of the way out. Then use a crow bar on the head and smack it the rest of the way out. It takes time when they have 25 years of crud and rust on them.
I then used a very large allen wrench about 1/2" in diameter. Put the short end on the bolt tip and hit it with a hammer to move it into the cavity about 1". Then I used an 10" x 5/8" bolt (they have them at the hardware store) and drove the t-arm bolt the majority of the way out. Then use a crow bar on the head and smack it the rest of the way out. It takes time when they have 25 years of crud and rust on them.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 304
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From: Corinth Tx
Re: trailing arm bolts (bigvette1)
i have already soaked every thing with penitrating oil very very well and i cant get this thing to budge
about a year ago i took these bolts out so this is not new to me and the bolt should be mostly clean i put on offset t arms but put the same shims and bolts back in and took it to be aligned they told me the rear toe was fine and just set the camber then i put in a steeroids system and took it in to a diffrent shop to be aligned and they said it would take some time to do it.
they kept it for two days and then said they could not do the rear becuase the shims do not slide out so i thoght no problem ill just take that bolt out and replace the shims with ss ones. i disconected the spring the shockand the strut i have the nut off and the bolt is turning with a wrench.
i do not understand how it can be turning but not coming out with me hitting it like i am. :reddevil
about a year ago i took these bolts out so this is not new to me and the bolt should be mostly clean i put on offset t arms but put the same shims and bolts back in and took it to be aligned they told me the rear toe was fine and just set the camber then i put in a steeroids system and took it in to a diffrent shop to be aligned and they said it would take some time to do it.
they kept it for two days and then said they could not do the rear becuase the shims do not slide out so i thoght no problem ill just take that bolt out and replace the shims with ss ones. i disconected the spring the shockand the strut i have the nut off and the bolt is turning with a wrench.
i do not understand how it can be turning but not coming out with me hitting it like i am. :reddevil
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 1
From: Boxford Mass
Re: trailing arm bolts (dewcustom)
I read a post where somebody drilled them out.
Start with a small bit and try and go right through the shims, through the center of the bolt. Then he kept using a bigger bit until the bit was bigger than the bolt. Key is to hit the center of the bolt on the first pass.
Sawsall with BIMETAL blade should go through the shims too.
[Modified by Jack71, 11:18 PM 8/24/2003]
Start with a small bit and try and go right through the shims, through the center of the bolt. Then he kept using a bigger bit until the bit was bigger than the bolt. Key is to hit the center of the bolt on the first pass.
Sawsall with BIMETAL blade should go through the shims too.
[Modified by Jack71, 11:18 PM 8/24/2003]
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 1,360
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Re: trailing arm bolts (Jack71)
I read a post where somebody drilled them out.
It worked quite well. Just make sure your aim is good so you actually hit the bolt. It's a bit hard to see with the shims in place.
dewcustom, you mentioned you could turn the bolt, however it will not pound out. Any chance the bushing is turning with the bolt.?
Barry
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 82
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From: honolulu hi
Re: trailing arm bolts (Barry's70LT1)
i had the same promlem on a 79, bolt shims and all, since your replacing everything like i did, i used a torchand cut in between the frame and the torque arm, but take rags and soak them with cold water and place them on the out side of the frame, a quick couple blasts and stop and inspect, rewater and go again, my uncle did the torching and he's said its common pratice on c-3 driven in New England area, the problem is rust make the bolt swell in the bushing, making it imposible to hammer out :steering:
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 304
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From: Corinth Tx
Re: trailing arm bolts (bnytro)
i am only replacing the bolt and shims not the trailing arm i did that about a year ago that is why i thought it should be easier this time
but anyways i am back at it this morning and even after it soaked all night in penitrating oil it is not moving. i am useing a long extension with a 7/16 socket on it and a sledge hammer to try and beat it out.
but anyways i am back at it this morning and even after it soaked all night in penitrating oil it is not moving. i am useing a long extension with a 7/16 socket on it and a sledge hammer to try and beat it out.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 44
From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Re: trailing arm bolts (dewcustom)
I know this wont help, but when you rebuilt your T-arms last year did you use a bunch of marine grease on the bolts?
If you cant budge the bolt, you may have to cut it out. Then, for the future rebuild I'd invest in a set of SS slotted shims.
If you cant budge the bolt, you may have to cut it out. Then, for the future rebuild I'd invest in a set of SS slotted shims.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
From: Corinth Tx
Re: trailing arm bolts (Stewart's74)
yea i already have ss shims and bolts
i do not have a cutting torch and it doesn't look like there is enogh room for the saw zaw plus i will have t cut through the shims as well :cry
i do not have a cutting torch and it doesn't look like there is enogh room for the saw zaw plus i will have t cut through the shims as well :cry
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Re: trailing arm bolts (dewcustom)
Man I dread tearing into my suspension rebuild.
Just out of curiousity, has anyone ever tried grinding the bolt head off and then pounding it through from the other side? Would that work?
Just out of curiousity, has anyone ever tried grinding the bolt head off and then pounding it through from the other side? Would that work?
Racer
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 422
Likes: 3
From: Oxford MI
Re: trailing arm bolts (wcsinx)
I just did mine. You may have the same type of shims I had where the bolt goes through a hole in the shim not a slot. Therefore, the shims will not pull out. I cut through with a sawsallbetween the bushing and the shim. Be carefull not to cut the arm as it has a boss on both sides.
[Modified by BB2B, 11:03 AM 8/25/2003]
[Modified by BB2B, 11:03 AM 8/25/2003]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 1
From: Sodertalje/Sweden
Re: trailing arm bolts (wcsinx)
Just replaced my bushings this weekend to Polys.The bolt just slided out :thumbs:
Thank God this car never has been driven in the winter :thumbs: :cheers: :cheers:
I`m with the "Sawsall" crowd.That would do the trick :thumbs: :cheers:
Thank God this car never has been driven in the winter :thumbs: :cheers: :cheers:
I`m with the "Sawsall" crowd.That would do the trick :thumbs: :cheers:
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Re: trailing arm bolts (wcsinx)
Just out of curiousity, has anyone ever tried grinding the bolt head off and then pounding it through from the other side? Would that work?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 44
From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Re: trailing arm bolts (dewcustom)
yea i already have ss shims and bolts
i do not have a cutting torch and it doesn't look like there is enogh room for the saw zaw plus i will have t cut through the shims as well :cry
i do not have a cutting torch and it doesn't look like there is enogh room for the saw zaw plus i will have t cut through the shims as well :cry
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Re: trailing arm bolts (Stewart's74)
The bolt heads are on the inside of the frame. I dont think there is any room in there. Are your bolts in backwards?