A while back there was a thread on drop spindles. If I remember correctly, the spindles from a full size chevrolet may be interchangable??

Just wondering if anyone found out for sure if such a thing exists.

 

i think i remember that thread but i don't know if anyone actually confirmed they were interchangable. i called belltech way back when to see if they had any for the c-3 and, of course, they don't. i don't know if anyone figured a way to lower the fronts without cutting springs so that may be your only choice.

just had a thought. what if you were to take your lower a-arms to a fabricator and have the ball joint part cut and rewelded to raise the mounting point. it would keep the suspension components pretty much where they should be (springs/shocks) but effectively lower the car and improve the upper a-arm location. hmmm....

 

what about a GenII camaro spindle? They are probably available dropped.. hell there's a lot mor available for them than for us :(

The thing I'd like to know is, is the spindle axle profile the same on those so we can use our hubs? Does the camaro use the same hub? Can't image GM using all kinds of different stuff for different cars.

If you could run a pre 70's camaro spindle then there's some nice stuff available in the brake department too. there are bolt on kits for those available.

[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 5:32 AM 9/1/2003]


[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 6:17 AM 9/1/2003]

 

Twin Turbo. What does a spindle need? It just has tappered holes on either end that a stud sticks through. The stud is the ball joint and as long as the hole is the right size it would bolt on. If you were willing to go the whole route it should fit. A ball joint reamer quickly opens any hole to the correct size. The only thing that would bother me is the steering arm. Would it be the correct length. YOu can use the camaro hubs as is.
If you went that route are they longer then our stock spindles. Is the wheel hub comming out in the right height? . If you went this route and went for the brakes at the same time why wouldn't it fit?
I happen to like my brakes and don't want to change from the present setup other then increase the spindle length.
As for lower the spindle it is a simple matter to add a piece on the lower ball joint, I could use the screw in ball joints and that way it would be totally adjustable for height. Makes easy height adjustment.

 

Unfortunatley adding our lower ball joints are on top of the spindle instead of the normal underneath. Adding a spacer would actually raise the car. If there was a way to flip the ball joint over and use it on the bottom of the spindle, that would lower the car. I think it might lower it too much, though.

 

Norval, I know.. reaming the holes is no problem. I wanted to know if the spindle axle profile is the same as ours so that our hub will fit on the camaro spindle (or just use the camaro hub). I don't have a means to check out these parts since there is no one here that has them lying around.

The best thing toi do would be to get measurements, if the camaro spindle is longer than that's a benefit, that leaves the steering arm and the kingpin inclination (probably 0 just like on our cars)

I have Wilwood integra 6 and 4 as well as Integra GT calipers lying on the shellf. If I can fit those I'd be really pleased. I already have the design for the stock spindle ready but if the camaro spindle offers a solution for a dropped and extended spindle than I'd rather make them fit to that.

Is the hub at the right height? Dunno,m would need measurements. The only dimension I'd be interested is if it's the same hieght relative to the bottom tapered hole, top doeesn't matter. If the spindle axle is higher YAY! that means it'll drop the front.

I don't like my brakes, I used to do quite a bit of autobahn driving and the brakes sare adequate at best.

A screw in balljoint in the lower spindle hole would be a nice solution, that way you could indeed set the dropped height and have an extended spindle at the same time. BUT! our spindles are mounted under the lower arms and so it raises the car and actually makes the spindle shorter (distance from upper to lower balljoint).. making the geometry even worse than it is.

I think I'm gonna snoop around for some measurements on the camaro spindles.




[Modified by Twin_Turbo, 5:59 PM 9/1/2003]

 

I will measure the stock spindles tomorrow, if anyone is interested in the measurements let me know, I'll post them here.

 

Twin Turbo I am always interested in your measurements and store them for future reference.
As for the lower screw in ball joint Coleman racing sells the threaded piece that is welded to the existing lower A arm turning it into a screw in ball joint.
Anyone doing this modification could easily remove the lower A arm and take it to a welding shop to have the screw adaptor welded in.
I might do that just for something else to do this winter.
I am making my list and I really am considering coil overs for the back. They are so simple to fabricate.
If I really believed them to be superior I would do it.
Convince me.

 

only thing I can think of in favor of the coil voers is no force transistion from side to side through the leaf but the dual mount leaf mostly cures that problem (that's probably why the C4 leaf is dual mount too).. and of course adjustability of bump & rebound if you get a high $$$ set.

 

If you want to lower your C3 and keep a decent ride,why not have someone like Coil Spring Specialties build you a pair of 2" lowering springs? I've used their products before and have always been pleased with them.
Their contact info is at http://www.coilsprings.com/

 

Well these pics don't really solve the 'dropped spindel' issue, they do address a couple of other issues that a few of us would like solved. They make the spindle taller thereby raising the roll center. The move the axis of rotation of the upper A arm in by about 3/4 of and inch providing even more positive camber gain. And they look really easy to do.

The first pic shows how the added height and moved the taper hole inboard about 3/4".


the second pic shows how they used a spacer between the frame and the A-arm cross shaft to move the axis inwards and they used an offset bushing to get about another 1/4". I think I would just go for the 3/4 spacer instead of the special bushing.



Chris

 

Are those the pics from that racecar on ebay? I had noticed those things also (I saved the pics), Not only did they space the dcross shaft inward, it's also lower on the frame. The top of the spindle is even moved more inward than the bottom, increasing the kingpin angle. It's visible in the pics, there's 2 sort of gussets on the top of the spindle to support the extension.

 

Chris to me it is all Mickey Mouse. I would never do a job like that. Moving the lower ball joint is hard to see but the gussets on the upper part of the spindle is easy enough to see but onc again I would not do work like that.

 

just had a thought. tell me whatcha think. what if we could find some mcpherson strut front spindles that had roughly the same relative locations as far as spindle location, lower ball joint and steering arm. then we could simply fabricate an adaptor that would bolt to the original strut mount to convert it to a ball joint.
might be easier in the long run than cutting a factory spindle and rewelding.
if it's do-able, maybe someone with some good fabrication skills (*ahem* norval) could make a few dozen and those of us interested could search our local bone yards for the appropriate donor spindles. we'd be more than happy to kick in a bit of compensation for the fabrication time and materials.
o.k. pick it apart.

 

clutchdust I built my own pitman arm and my own center link with 4 locations per side for the inner tie rod mounting point. I also welded up the hole in the upper A arm for the ball joint and remachined it in a different location and it all looks stock.
While I haven't built a spindle yet I know it is a piece of cake for me to do it right, make it strong and look stock with any extension I choose.'
To me removing my existiing spindles, adding a piece from a donor spindle and welding them back together is a no brainer. I could easily take them to work and return home in the evening with a perfect set knowing they will fit right back it the stock location.
I do not want to try donor spindles and worry about the upper mount for the caliper mounting plate.
Everyone seems to try finding donor spindles? Why not just weld the stock ones. I will certainly try it first as soon as the car goes away and pass on the results and picures but again it is really simple and any welding shop could do the same for you in your neighbourhood.
Guys with the modern mig welders you can just about build the spindles with weld. Heavily ressessed? areas can be built right up, blended , ground and made to look invisible.
Don't create more problems with adapting spindles that need modifications.
Now if someone finds a spindle that works I would certainly go out and buy it from the wreckers just like the rest of you guys.

 

Norval, If you want a spare set of spindles, I have a set from the parts cars I had. I'll be in Brantford within the next couple of weeks to drop the frame off for stripping.

If you want them let me know I can head north a bit and drop them off. All I ask for in return is a ride in your beast.

 

Mike I would love a set of spare spindles to modify before winter. If you can drive standard I would let you drive. I often let others drive the car and as long as your are experienced with the clutch I would have no problem.
Let me know when it suits you.
Sorry no ride in the rain. :) :)

 

Norval,

Yes, I can definitely drive stick.
No, I wouldn't even want to try and drive that beast in the rain.

It'll be in the next couple of weeks as I want to get the frame back before winter and it takes 3-4 weeks to complete the process.

 

Got your instant message and sent a E mail. The 14th would be fine, I would also like to call and make sure about everything before hand. Send me an email with your phone number and I will call to make sure you find my place.