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I just installed Tilton OT-II on my 77. Went together great. Looks awesome. Pics to follow this weekend. Put the bell housing and trans on. Went to operate the clutch but it wouldn't engage. Further inspection shows that the cluth fork can't push the throw out bearing forward enough to engage. The fork starts to make contactr with the bell housing.
It would seem that the tilton 3 pak is thinner than the stock clutch. The only solution that i can see is to move the ball pivot out more to move the fulcrum point closer to the clutch.
I got to fustrated with the whole thing and walked off before i did something implussive like burn the garage to the ground. Anyway, i don't know if i can even adjust the ball pivot location.
Anybody heard of anything like this??? Thoughts???? Ideas????? :banghead:
sounds like a similiar problem with the Centerforce clutches? I'm about ready to install a new Hays street/Strip on a 75 that's supposed to be the same geometry as stock. Will be interested to see if the saem problems develope?
Gary
Get an adj pivot stud, it is 2 peices, the base screws into the stock threads then the stud potion screws into that. Don't bother using the little nut that comes with that is supposed to hold the stud in place, many have complained it comes loose after a little while. I used JB weld on the threads of the stud, don't use it on the base threads or you will never get it apart from the bellhousing. Some have tack welded it but since I don't have a welder I thought the JB Weld would work fine.
I installed the centerforce II and used the centerforce self aligning throwout bearing, fired it up and had a small pinging noise each time I engaged the clutch. To make a long story short after three times removing the tranny I pruchased a Hayes throughout bearing non-self aligning, the bearing was longer than the centerforce, I also used the longer pivot bearing and my problem went away.
On my 81 I had a similar problem. I looked at three solutions: adjustable pivot, longer throw out bearing, and shimming the clutch plate. I was able to fix it with the adjustable pivot.
Finding a longer throw out bearing was difficult. Basically there are several sizes (most people refer to a short, medium, and a long). The standard one for a 4 sp Borg Warner is the short. I looked up the throw out bearing available at Advance Auto online then when to web sites of the manufacturer got information called tech support and they explained which part number was which.
Never did really explore the shimming the clutch. But you may want to.
I just spent the day trying to solve the problem. Here is what i have so far. With the stock fork and throw out bearing, there is a gap of almost 2 INCHES!!!! from the clutch.
I figured out that a long throw out bearing would be the fix but was unsucessfull locating one. If anyone has the name brand, parrt number, or make.model application, i would be for ever in your debt.
I was also unawar of an adjustable pivot bearing. Although i doubt that fill be enough to fix the problem, it would help to dail it in.
I have also been unsuccessful at contacting Tilton for texh asst. If anyone has the number i would also be in your debt.
However, while going through the site i found out that the clutch i have should not be used on the street. Now i know someone out there has used this clutch on the street before. What was it like?
I neglected to tell you (in the e-mails) to get a correct "Tilton bearing" a triple disc (at least mine) takes a special bearing, the face of the bearing is different than a stocker. ...redvetracr