I am getting ready to completely go through my suspension on my 69 small block convertible.

Last year when I installed my new small block, I also replaced the steering box (power), thinking that was the car’s handling problems. The car still does not drive correctly, it wanders on the road, and the rear end feels as it sprung too hard, while the front feels under sprung. The engine and 4-speed are a blast, but the car is not fun to drive as it does not inspire any confidence while driving it. A friend has a 69 hard top that he stuck a big block in and his car drives much better than mine.

I am going to take the car to a friend’s shop that does suspensions on racecars (road cars for tracks like Infineon and Thunder Hill).

My goals are for a Street Car, not a track car.

Right now the car is a small block (Fast Burn 385), 4-speed, PS, PB convertible that I am having side exhaust headers built for. Currently I am running the factory 15” ralleys with 60 series tires, but want to eventually go to 17s or 18 in. rims.

So now to my questions;

1. Any suggestions on springs, shocks, handling kits etc. (I do not want to run poly bushings as every car I have tried them on, made so much noise including the graphite impregnated ones.)

2. What do the offset trailing arms do? Can they be used with aftermarket rims and stock ralleys (15”)?

3. How do people with the Steeroids conversion like their set up? I have read on these boards that some people found a loss of road feel. Is this true?

4. Anything that I need to look out for?

Thanks for any help,

Eric.


[Modified by EricU, 12:47 PM 9/5/2003]

 

The power sterring control valve can make these cars drive very scary when they are in need of replacement, as will a bad idler arm.

 

Wrong toe in and out could also cause the car to go all over the place

 

Go with the factory configuration for springs, shocks, and control arm bushings. Check your dealer, he should have most of the items...if not, lot of supporting vendors that can help you


Allow you to use wider rims and wider tires


Don't know, you will have to wait till they answer, but I think, they love the set up

Nope, just let your friend do the work relax sit back, and enjoy your ride

 

TTT :lurk:

 

I'm putting a monospring conversion on my car.. front and rear.

check out van steels' website.. scroll down the side bar for the link :thumbs:

 

My set up on my 71 vert,383,4sp,ps,pb,ac:

Front: VB monospring,KYB GR-2s,1 1/8 stabar, steeroids
Rear: TRW 315 monospring,KYB GR-2, 5/8 stabar,smart struts

poly bushings all around
17" PS Engineering wheels with Bridgestone 730s

replace all steering components - ball joints, tie rod ends, idler arm

Result: very smooth, corners well, no squeeks.

 

The biggest thing on handling to cope with wandering was said is the PS control valve. YOu bet. Also, the idler arm. Next once you know all the front and rear components and tires are solid, get a good repeat good 4 wheel alignment. The toe and camber in the rear and rear and the cross angle make it track right. If the alignment guy scratchs his head on the read end - go elsewhere.

 

Describe the wandering more precisely. Can you turn the steering wheel a bit without any effect?

That was the problem with my car before steeroids. It felt very unsafe to drive over 70 mph or so. R&P largely fixed this. Its now easy to drive straight at pretty much any speed. Despite everyone praising this system so much, I still have a split opinion. It solved the problems I bought it for, but the turn-in feel is disconnected now. It feels almost like playing an arcade game. Lots of people say it feels like a new car. That's true, but IMO most newer cars have a horrible steering feel off-center. They're designed for easy driving, not involving driving. Especially since these racks were in Cavaliers and Grand Am's and such - not the world's greatest cars. Its personal preference though.

If you're happy with the steering ratio, it might be better to figure out what's wrong with your current setup than going to R&P. Doing that wouldn't eliminate ball joint, alignment, or bushing problems either if that's what's wrong.

For springs, go to the stock or FE7 (gymkhana option) setup. The stock springs won't win you any races, but they give a smooth, predictable response. FE7 is quite good from what I hear. I don't know the specs though.

 

Thanks for the replies!

This place is a great source for help!

And yes, I can turn the steering wheel off center with little or no effort or response. This is not fun or acceptable. I will check the power steering control valve.

It sounds as though, (from what I have read) that the current Steroids conversion is not for me. I like a lot of road feel. I wonder if Steroids is looking at this at all. Though, I would love to drive a C3 sometime that has the conversion, to see how it really does drive.

A couple of more questions for you;

1) What does the monoleaf conversion gain/do? This seems a backwards step to me, but I am far from a suspension engineer.

2) Can I use the offset trailing arms with my current 15” ralleys, and then switch to 17s or 18s latter?

3) Does Baer have a C3 kit, and if so has anyone used it? I have a 64 Impala SS convertible that I used a Baer kit on and absolutely love it.

4) Flyinhi (or anyone else), do you really have poly bushings with no squeaks?


Thanks for all the help!

Eric.

 

Here are my 2 cents worth of answers...

1) Monoleaf conversion removes a good deal of weight (both springs and old heavy steel leaf spring). Most monoleaf conversions include adjustability so you can set the spring rate to something you like.

2) The offset trailing arms place the center of the wheel in exactly the same place as stock trailing arms, so the answer to you question is yes.

3) ?

4) My poly bushings don't squeak.

My answers are based on my experience with VB Performance suspension package on a 1970 Vette.

Good luck - :)