Heya guys. I ordered a pedal assembly to go along with my 3-speed auto to 6-speed ROD conversion in my 1980 coupe. According to the mechanic, this was the last part we needed, and the car should be ready early next week. A couple of months ago, I asked for any tips you guys had with respect to the conversion. Here is the list I compiled based on you guys' comments:

1. Use Redline 75-90NS synthetic gear oil (2 quarts should be the right amount).

2. Make sure the shifter is bolted to the crossmember and not to the tranny. If it's bolted to the tranny then the shifter will move around as the tranny twists due to torque.

3. Make sure the shifter rods do not contact one another and bind up. You might be able to use various assortments of washers to make sure all the rods never touch each other.

4. Make sure to use the clevis pins correctly (where the rods connect at the shifter).

5. The linkage is the most important thing in getting the tranny to shift correctly. Put the centering pin in the shifter and line everything up.

6. If any of the shifter rods need to be bent, do not bend them without heating them first. If they are not heated first, they will crack. You will probably have to shorten the excess length on the threaded end to clear the parking brake pulley.

7. You may have to fabricate the rear most shift lever bolted to the trans for clearance reasons.

8. The length of the clutch pivot relay ball stud is critical. If it is the wrong size, not only will the clutch geometry be off, the clutch pivot arm may hit the firewall preventing you from being able to push the clutch in all the way.

9. Make sure the rear yoke is shortened or it will damage internals on the tranny.

10. Automatic tranny cranks were different from the manual. The automatic cranks have too small of a hole for the pilot bearing. As a result the crank will need to be drilled larger so a pilot bearing will fit. Given that I am going to have yall put in a new engine real soon, I believe this can be put off until the new engine goes in.

11. Make sure the speedometer gears are set up right...easily tested with an odometer check.

12. You may have to fabricate a rear tranny mount--the over the counter replacement ones might be too tall.

13. The instructions to one of the linkages might be wrong (I believe #5 linkage). Take the bolts and put that on the inside (closest to the caseing) and the nut on the outside otherwise it will hit the casesing and you can't shift.


If you guys see any errors on my list, or have any additional comments whatsoever, I would very much appreciate it. Wanna try to make sure the mechanic doesn't make any errors to ruin the tranny or my fun :)

Thanks a bunch.

 

SaltyNuts,
Where did you order your pedals from?? I'm looking to do the same change in a 72..

Thanks in advance.

 

nova,

Sent this guy an email, and ask if he has anymore. He charged me $75 plus shipping. Very helpful guy.

Corvetteworks@aol.com

 

2. Make sure the shifter is bolted to the crossmember and not to the tranny. If it's bolted to the tranny then the shifter will move around as the tranny twists due to torque.

This seems a bad idea since the shifter needs to be adjusted to the trans. If the two do not move together the shifter can become out of adjustment at the critical point of shifting under torque. This is why all the Long and Hurst shifters are bolted to the trans and also why the newer internal shifting trans like the tremec have the shifter in the trans housing.

Having it bolted to the crossmember may reduce interior noise a bit and make the shifter vibrate less, but it sure would add to vagueness when shifting.

Dave

 

When I installed my Hurst shifter, it mounted on the trans. Maybe it's diff for a ROD?

Keith

 

Uh oh, can anyone clarify about whether the shifter should be bolted to the tranny or crossmember?

Thanks.


[Modified by GeoffSchultz, 11:55 PM 9/22/2003]

 

The shifter is bolted to the back of the trans on the Richmond Six....on the driver's side.....

Bob

 

The ROD uses a Longs shifter, and it is bolted to the transmission. A much better shifter than the Hurst IMHO. They use heim joints on the linkage rods, very sweet!

DON'T BEND THE LINKAGE RODS WITHOUT FIRST HEATING THEM RED HOT AT THE POINT YOU WANT TO BEND THEM!

Chuck

 

Install and adjust the shift linkage on the transmission befor you install the transmission. It is much easier to do on a bench. Once the adjustment is correct you can lock it in and remove the shifter for instalation of the trany. Mine went together with no modifications to the linkage required ( no bends & no cuts).

 

As said before, shifter will mount to trans...you have no choice in this matter - as only the factory shifter mounts to the crossmember.

 

Am I to understand that you are going to install this trans WITHOUT a pilot bushing? if so add line item 14 - replace transmission with new engine.

You will kill that transmission without a pilot bearing/bushing. I cant say how long it will take, but it wont last very long before you start feeling vibrations.

DO THE JOB RIGHT....you dont want to have to do it again. Although I must say that you sound to have everything else under control....just dont skimp on that step, you'll be happier in th end

Just my .02


[Modified by fauxrs, 1:00 PM 9/23/2003]

 

:iagree:

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=661679

No need to say any more - put in the pilot bushing.....