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Well I was going to post that I has ready to purchase one of AR's 383's but after looking at some of the posts, I'm concerned that it may not be the best way to go. Are this issues, just a few limited issues or are they becomming common place?
Well I was going to post that I was ready to order one next week, but I think I'll hold off until the general feeling is that all is ok, and that the issues presented here were just a couple glichs.
Anyone here using Sallee Crate motors? They look to be high quality modified ZZ4 motors, I talked with them, but the price will be about 1500.00 more than AR's 383. But if they don't have quaility issues, it might be money well spent.
Any advice would be appreciated. I want/have to do a swap this winter, since my tanny lost 1st gear, and the clutch is now fried. The motor was less than steller on a dyno, and I need to do the other work, so why not do a engine upgrade.
It's not the orginal motor in it any ways, so no big deal with swapping again!!
I'm supposed to recieve mine soon, I let you know how it goes although it may be awhile before I have it up and running. I believe the people who had problems talked to Mark and he said to send the motors back, and he would send them a new one :cheers:
After hearing the latest AR stories and about the cost of shipping, I think I'd look for a local builder that you can trust. It sounds like AR is taking care of their customers, but pulling an engine and shipping it somewhere isn't really that convenient and costs hundreds of dollars. I think I'd much rather have a relationship with someone local. :cheers:
Since you have questions in your mind about AR's engines I would think it might be worth your time to contact many of the buyers on E-bay. I got e-mail from 2 different prospective buyers in the last week alone and I bought my engine almost 10 months ago. Those buyers are actually pretty smart as they probably figured those with their engines for 6 months or so can give them a fair assessment. The newest buyers probably have not installed them, so why even contact them. I wish I would have thought of that before I made a major purchase like this although I cannot say that I have found anything to make me worry about the 355(which I have not started yet). Guys like to talk cars & engines, so I bet you would get alot of answers... just as I answered.
After hearing the latest AR stories and about the cost of shipping, I think I'd look for a local builder that you can trust. It sounds like AR is taking care of their customers, but pulling an engine and shipping it somewhere isn't really that convenient and costs hundreds of dollars. I think I'd much rather have a relationship with someone local. :cheers:
I totally agree I can't imagine having to deal with someone half way across the country...........But they are a lot of bang for the buck if they live up to their promises...........that is a big IF
After hearing the latest AR stories and about the cost of shipping, I think I'd look for a local builder that you can trust. It sounds like AR is taking care of their customers, but pulling an engine and shipping it somewhere isn't really that convenient and costs hundreds of dollars. I think I'd much rather have a relationship with someone local. :cheers:
I totally agree I can't imagine having to deal with someone half way across the country...........But they are a lot of bang for the buck if they live up to their promises...........that is a big IF
I wonder who else has had good experience with them.. It would be interesting how many people here have bought a engine from them to see what % of people have issues and how many don't... For me - it was one of my best purchases that I made... I'm sure that the engine is capable to catapult me into the upper 11's.. maybe even faster... It's very sad for my to see that other people have issues with their engines. However - it's great to see a vendor standing behind their product.. especially because their product is priced extremely competitive.. There's no doubt about the quality of the components used..(I had my mechanic check out all the components of the engine (internals with a bore scope) before it was installed) Most of the issues seem to be the result of trying to assemble the engines quick to get them out of the door.. High production speed can result in unfortunate mistakes... :( :(.. I hope that they will be able to slow production down a little bit and getting the quality back up again...
What I would recommend for a buyer is to check a few things on the engine before firing it up (like turning the crank to see if everyting is clearanced right, checking the rocker arms etc...) If you take enough precaution - you should be ok......
Will they dyno test the engine before they ship it to you? Isn't this usually an extra cost option when you buy an engine? Seems like it would be well worth it. MJ
Will they dyno test the engine before they ship it to you? Isn't this usually an extra cost option when you buy an engine? Seems like it would be well worth it. MJ
Don't know if they offer it as an option.. Mine wasn't dyno tested.. They get the HP rating from mule engines... I tested mine for RWHP and it indicates that their specifications were accurate...
After seeing the experience the CCC has had with an AR engine, I would not buy one. AR stands behind their product, but I would not want to deal with the issues.
There will be a very intresting post coming out of the CCC soon.
The drama builds. I've got a good seat and went back to the refreshment stand to load up to make sure I don't miss anything.
:lurk: :lurk: :lurk: :lurk:
If at all worried about an AR racing eng I would look at the GM HT383, a true 383 ci motor (3.80 stroke as opposed to 3.75 bored .030 over) packed with quality parts (forged crank, PM LT4 rods, and hypo pistons) and a GM warranty. This eng should be good to 450 hp with a good cam and exhaust. Out of the crate it makes over the 325 advertised hp and with a cam swap should get you into the 400's, it has a tiny cam. I should have gone this route instead of crate eng from a company that does not stand behind its eng, Speed-o-motive. I ended up buying a cheapo GM crate eng, $1,400 delivered to my office, and beat it pretty good with no failures. I have yet hear of anyone having a GM eng fail on start up or shortly after but I am sure there are some.
If at all worried about an AR racing eng I would look at the GM HT383, a true 383 ci motor (3.80 stroke as opposed to 3.75 bored .030 over) packed with quality parts (forged crank, PM LT4 rods, and hypo pistons) and a GM warranty. This eng should be good to 450 hp with a good cam and exhaust. Out of the crate it makes over the 325 advertised hp and with a cam swap should get you into the 400's, it has a tiny cam. I should have gone this route instead of crate eng from a company that does not stand behind its eng, Speed-o-motive. I ended up buying a cheapo GM crate eng, $1,400 delivered to my office, and beat it pretty good with no failures. I have yet hear of anyone having a GM eng fail on start up or shortly after but I am sure there are some.
The problem with all the GM crate engines are that the heads are junk (performance wise - not quality wise) and restrict the potential power... In order to get some nice power - you would have to spend another grand on good heads... A bigger cam will only help you if you have heads that will have enough flow... I love my DART Heads with 215cc intake runners... Should I decide to mod the engine with a bigger cam - the heads will be able to flow good enough for 600+ HP...
Oh contrare, the vortec heads are the best value for the money for anything below .500 lift and 450hp. For most those are acceptable numbers. Of course if you want more it costs more but again you weigh GM's reputation against AR's.
Here is a write up on getting 460hp and 500 lbs/ft of torq out of a HT383 with the vortec heads.
Oh contrare, the vortec heads are the best value for the money for anything below .500 lift and 450hp. For most those are acceptable numbers. Of course if you want more it costs more but again you weigh GM's reputation against AR's.
Here is a write up on getting 460hp and 500 lbs/ft of torq out of a HT383 with the vortec heads.
Just check what the total cost would be to make 460 HP with that engine .. You could almost buy 2 AR engines for that kind of money (especially if you have to pay somebody to make the changes to the GM engine)
I'll take on anybody at the track that runs a GM crate engine with stock heads and no nitrous or supercharger - and I bet that I'll win... and I only spent 1/2 the money...
Oh contrare, the vortec heads are the best value for the money for anything below .500 lift and 450hp. For most those are acceptable numbers. Of course if you want more it costs more but again you weigh GM's reputation against AR's.
Here is a write up on getting 460hp and 500 lbs/ft of torq out of a HT383 with the vortec heads.
Just check what the total cost would be to make 460 HP with that engine .. You could almost buy 2 AR engines for that kind of money (especially if you have to pay somebody to make the changes to the GM engine)
I'll take on anybody at the track that runs a GM crate engine with stock heads and no nitrous or supercharger - and I bet that I'll win... and I only spent 1/2 the money...
[Modified by GrandSportC3, 9:06 AM 9/25/2003]
Not much comfort to the forum members who had to send their engines back which was my point in the first place. Again I am not saying that AR eng are junk and not a good deal but if in doubt the GM route is an option. I do agree the price is a bit high for what you get and I would like to see the ht383 short block be not much more that the zz4 short block.
Here is a approx. total cost for the mentioned 383 build:
HT383 Crate engine:................$3895 (+shipping)
Intake.................................. ....$170
Install of Intake.........................$150
Roller Rocker arms....................$200
Install................................. ......$100
Cam + Install............................$300
Valve Springs + Install...............$400
Pulling Heads and installing
different head gasket.................$200 +++
Pulleys etc installed....................$300 +++
........................................ ...----------------
Total for people that
don't do the work themselves:... $5715
If you do the work yourself... you maybe save $700 - $800... You'll still end up paying around $5k+++ total...
You'd have to send back the engine many times until you reach $5700 with your AR engine..
For me personally - I didn't have to spend close to 6k and still take on anybody with such $6k engine...
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