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Hi all.
Just to introduce - I've got a 73 Stingray, 454 Auto, with 40,000 original miles on it. I've had the car for about two years and haven't done much to it other than drive it (nothing wrong with that!). The car's got headers, but no other visible mods as far as I can see. The guy I bought it from didn't know too much about the car, other than it came from Canada originally.
So here's the question -
I'd like to swap electronic ignition into the car, as I'm not into setting points, and like the better performance from electronic. I see though, that my tach is driven mechanically from the distributor. What are my options here? I'd like to keep the stock tach working, but not if that means it's going to cost me tons of money on the conversion to electronic.
Other question is, what the heck do I need to fix to get the darn headlights to stay "down" when the lights are off? I can reach under the car and get them to go back down, but then the next time I put the lights on, they are back up to stay until I manually put them back.
I can do most anything with cars, though admittedly I've always worked on Mopars and very few Chevies.
Its nice to meet you always good to have someone else to snap pictures if needed hehe...
Sorry I am not an expert on anything you've asked. I am guessing that there is a spring to return the lights being that the vacum must acctuate them into the upward position. This is just a guess only because mine are still closed after many many moons of dead system.
Least I can do is try and keep you to the top. Only bad part is if I am wrong I am going to get some sort of nasty lecture from someone who invented the damn things.
Hello, you can swap in an HEI distributor and replace your tach with a '75 or later tach which runs off the HEI. Many here have done it. A friend of mine just finished doing it on his 74. Works fine. Tach looks like it was factory..... Don't know how much the "look" has changed from your year tach to mine.
Just my .02cents - If you are going to start "working" on the car you really should get the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) and possibly a set of GM Service manuals. Don't waste your money on the generic repair manuals that are sold in your local auto parts stores - too vague and generic.
Check that both vacuum lines are hooked up to each actuator. You might try to swap them and see what happens. Get yourself a good vacuum diagram and it shouldn't take you any time at all to get them going
Welcome to the Forum!! :chevy You can buy aftermarket distributors that mechanically drive your tach. MSD has one for $287, the ignition control(6A or 6AL box) for $150 and a Blaster II coil for $35-all through Summit. If you are concerned with looking original, you will have to hide everything, or you could go with the previously mentioned solution of switching your tach and going with HEI.
I will looking into that idea of swapping to HEI and putting in the later model tach. I'm not overly concerned with originality - I'll just keep any original parts I swap out.
Where can I get one of those AIM manuals? I agree that those generic ones are pretty worthless.
You can keep your original mechanical tach drive distributor and install electronic ignition (not HEI) in it for about $100 +/-.
If you want HEI AND your mechanical tach drive, then you'll have to buy an aftermarket distributor with HEI and mechanical tach drive for about $300 +/-.
On the lights... the best expert you'll ever find is "you" after you buy the diagram & troubleshooting guide. These things are known for the weirdest cause & effect side-show that I have ever seen. Lots of component failure (including unseen cracked hoses) and combinations of component failures can cause the same ills. If you get enough responses here... one of them is bound to be right... but which one? :)