I just bought a new Control Valve and the ball has play in it. Is this normal, plus it turns to the right, the valve was supposed to be centered from the factory.

Thanks for the support.

 

Is this a rebuilt control valve? I think the uncentered operation pretty common with most rebuilt control valves. Where did you get it? From what I've seen a lot of time the rebuilts are worse than the ones you took out. A buddy of mine went through 3 of them from Autozone before he got one that didn't leak. That's why I'm probably going to rebuild my own.

 

Did you get new or rebuilt?

 

The valve is a rebuilt valve, that was purchased at Advance Auto Parts. It does not leak, but the ball and valve just has a lot of play in it to be rebuilt. :mad

 

The centering problem is quite simple to fix. I don't know how they could center these things without actually pumping fluid through them and "running" them on a jig of some sort. A LITTLE play is probably normal from the ball joint, a lot is no good, and I really can't say how much is acceptable.

 

I am new to the Corvette, 9-15-03, but I am learning already & I am glad to be able to contribute so soon.

I put a rebuild kit for the power steering control valve yesterday.
Cost at O Rally, $6.

There is a threaded plug in the end of the tube that holds the ball that should take out any play. You have to split the control valve at the bolts to get to it.
You have to remove the adjusting nut for centering to split the valve.
Pay Very Close Attention to what goes where as the valve comes apart.
If you have trouble putting back together E me & I will fax the drawing.

I had to take the valve off the car to get it back together.

The boot for the ball joint will probably be shot. The boot is not available anywhere that I could find.
I made a boot out at a universal boot from O Rally for 5/8" shank ball joint.

There is a adjusting nut for centering, under the cap on the left end of the control valve.
Have the engine running & turn the nut in or out for centering.
I had auto right turn on thr first try.
If you pay close attention to where the adjusting nut is on the shaft you may get lucky. A 1/8 turn makes a difference.

Good luck, you will need it.

 

"From what I've seen a lot of time the rebuilts are worse than the ones you took out. A buddy of mine went through 3 of them from Autozone before he got one that didn't leak. That's why I'm probably going to rebuild my own. "

Exactly.

The inside of the housing and the sleeve that slides both wear extensively... no matter how well you "rebuild" these things, they will never work like new and they will leak.

There are two (2) adjustments that must me made... the centering adjustment, and the ball-stud/socket adjustment.

You can't assume the valve was properly centered before it left the rebuilder. Count on doing this step yourself.... stay clear of the steering wheel when you make the adjustment.. the steering wheel can be spun by an out of adjustment valve and it can really hurt if you get intimate with it.

The socket adjustment (which controls excessive endplay) can only be made by disassembling the valve. I always adjust them to "tight" or zero clearance. This socket is greased and is designed to be at zero clearance.... just like a tie rod end or a balljoint.

The flip side is that the trwo adapter halves are sealed with a flimsy metal gasket that can only take one or two re-torques before it also leaks. So... taking the valve apart a second time to adjust the ball-stud is risky unless you use a new metal gasket.
I have done them witrhout using a new gasket... and they didn't leak. But it is playing the odds.

If the ball stud sleeve and housing are both worn excessively, then your rebuilt valve is useless. Even if such a valve is properly adjusted, the clearance between the worn parts will allow the ball-stud to float around. You'll have to get another one. Rebuilders do not replace sleeves or housings... these parts are not available individually. Rebuilders just basically replace all the seals and grease 'em up, and their adjustments are usually way off.

 

Whenever doing any control valve work, make sure you never reach in, THROUGH THE STEERING WHEEL, to start the car. If anything is out of whack, the steering wheel can spin with enough force to break your arm. No joke.

If you have to, put a note on the wheel to remind yourself.

:cheers:

 

Thanks Everyone for the input, the rebuilt valve that I got had alot of play in the ball. So I took it back and got my money back, the one on the car now does not leak it just has a little play in the ball. The paint on the old valve doesn't look that old, so i think I'm going to take it apart and adjust the slack out of it.

Thanks To Everyone

 

I used a rebuild. It needed no adjustment and has no leaks so far.

Who (companies) actually does the rebuild on the rebuilt items?