When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok. I'm going by the Lar's reciepe for painting, 1st time painting any car for me. I notice the DP goes on leaving a nice smooth finish however the K36 leaves a somewhat rough finish. Even when sanded down with 150 it's not a smooth as the DP was. Is that the way its supposed to be ??? :confused:
I think so. Remember that you'll end up wet-sanding with 600 grit before spraying, and that'll make it as smooth as a babies behind...
Why don't you try block sanding with some 320, then wet sand a bit and see if it improves? I painted mine recently using the same recipe and it was OK.
And you may have sprayed it on a little dry. I noticed it do the same thing when I used it, but it sanded down nicely. Anything sanded with 150 won't be super smooth, but the final 600 grit pass will change that. The base coat won't want it any smoother.
I think so. Remember that you'll end up wet-sanding with 600 grit before spraying, and that'll make it as smooth as a babies behind...
Why don't you try block sanding with some 320, then wet sand a bit and see if it improves? I painted mine recently using the same recipe and it was OK.
:iagree: I think it was a some what rougher and did not have a shine to it. It all went away with the block sanding. FYI I had to block sanding mine three times.
DP is a sealer and goes on very smooth. K36 is a primer surfacer it goes on fairly rough unless you reduce it more than the directions call for. It will get smoother as you sand it with finer sandpaper.
While I haven't painted a car in many years I do use K-36 on all of my model jets which are mostly all fiberglass just like a corvette, only they are much harder to prep and paint than a car. :yesnod:
Everytime I buy K-36 they tell me that it does not need to be reduced at all, but every time I have tried to shoot it through any of my paint guns without reducer it shoots very dry and "spattery".
If you shoot it on too dry you will have major adhesion problems later on, and the paint will start coming off in big sheets.
I have found the best results from K-36 when it is reduced at least 75-100%.
It would be interesting to hear how much reducer the professional painters are using with this stuff.
Thanks everyone for your input. I shot another coat of k36 yesterday. I'm going to block it with 220 tonight. I'm finding that it will sand very easy, almost to the point that if your not carefull you can sand it all off, especally with 180. If anyone has any suggestions on shooting Mettalic I would appreciate them as well. I've been told that if its your first time painting a car to stay away from metallic.
If you don't mind me asking, why are you using such coarse paper? 220 is about as rough as you need for blocking primer, then 320/400/600. Are you using a guide coat to find low and high spots? I found that using an 8" sanding block gave me much better results than an 6" block. Long board the straight areas. Joe