My passenger door does not shut well and needs to be moved up some at the rear, how is this done?

 

I suspect that our Vettes are much like other 2 door cars with long doors - the sagging is probably due to worn pins in the hinges. Here's a link to a fix for the Buick GN's - probably very similar for Vettes....
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/doorsag.html

Hope that helps!
Jeff Broughton

 

Remove the inner kick panels to gain access to the bolts for the hinges. I adjusted mine with no help or drama. I used a bottle jack to hold the door up. The hardest part was getting in from the other side while the door was jacked in place.

 

you should remove the door striker while you make the alignment adjustment, then instal the striker to close the door properly.

 

As written above, the 4 upper and 4 lower door hinge to body mounting bolts are behind the kick panels. It would be a good idea to change the door hinge pins and bushings first (about $12.00 for both) but that would require removal of the door. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, just loosen the hinge to body bolts a little, and bump the door into place. Loosen too much, and it will droop way out of alignment and you'll have to start from scratch. BE CAREFULL and CAUTIOUS, and keep an eye on the forward point in that door. That's the part so often ruined.
Eddie

 

Jac1502,
I would replace the door hinge pins and bushings first, that may cure your problem.
I did this on my 68 without removing the door using a tip from someone on this forum.
Slightly tap the pin of the top hinge on the bottom of the pin with a hammer to raise the head, then using a file or a dremel tool, carefully remove a little metal on ONE SIDE of the head of the pin so that the round "O" shape of the head looks more like a "D". This will allow the pin to slide by the edge of the fiberglass fender without damage to the fender as long as the flat side of the "D" is toward the fender. Go slow. I did it and replaced the bushings and then the pin and solved my prblem. Did the passenger door also just to be sure even though it didn't need it.

 

Hey,

Can you give a little more detail on how to do that.
I have the bushings and I am ready to go.

Thanks

Pete
:cheers:

 

I just responded to you with Instant Message.

 

I too would like a little more info on your procedure. I have the same exact problem with my passenger door on my 81.

 

so would i !
my drivers side bushing is shot...i have the new pin and bushings...
i understand grinding the head to get it paste the door skin...
but i DONT understend how you get the new pin past it...???
do you gring off part of the new pins head too?


[Modified by SIGNGUY, 11:47 PM 10/2/2003]

 

What is the difference in adjustments on the two sets of door hinge bolts. Are they used for different purposes? You have the bolts attaching the hinge to the body, which are a pain to get to. Then you have the bolts on the hinge to the door, which are easier to get to. I alway thought the body to hinge bolts were mainly for shimming and adjusting door in and out at front edge of door. Any help on this?

 

You are correct sir. Body to hinge-in/out. hinge to door- up/down.

 

Yes, you grind the head of the new pin the same way you did the one coming out. It will still work fine becasue you are replacing the pin to compensate for the wear on the shaft of the pin not the head. The head just holds it from falling through and even if you grind it as suggested, it will still keep it from falling through.
Don't go crazy, just grind enough on the old to get it out and enough on the new to get it in.
Kurt