I have both of the Trailing Arms off of my 1977 for cleaning. Surprisingly, they came off without too much trouble. (Pivot bolt and shock mount were not weld rusted). I plan to replace the TA bushings with VBP polyurethane. The rear bearings have not given me any trouble. What kind of inspection can I do with the arms off. If I take the spindle nut and flange off and the inner bearing is OK, should I be confident the outer bearing is in the same condition. I don't want to go deeper than I have to.

Thanks,
snakey

 

You cannot see the bearings condition without taking the assembly apart. Unless the assemblies have been machined for a slip fit, you cannot get them apart without knowledge of the process and special tools (whether home-made or commercially made). The assemblies are pressed together, and require a lot of pressure to "un-press" them. The most you can do from the outside is check for excessive endplay, for which you will need a dial-gage and the expertise to use it correctly. A lot of people have the dial gage, but their measurements are not re-produceable because they don't know how to use the tool correctly.

This is another one of those topics that has been beat to death here on the forum... maybe searching the archives would be a good idea.

I rebuild these professionally... you can email me with specific questions if you'd like.
I know what works, and what is myth based on 30 years of professional experience with these. I've done a lot of testing with my own custom built jigs for measuring and setting up rear wheel bearings on the C2/C3 Vettes.

Tom

 

Be sure that your trailing arms are up to the poly bushings. If the bushings don't give (too stiff) and the t-arms are the original units, you may experience stress failure in the t-arms. The only poly I use on my suspension is in the strut rods (poly adjustable strut rods from VB&P). I use them there since the are subjected to incredible twisting forces along with the up/down pivot arc. I have installed OEM rubber bushings on the front-end, differential and leaf spring and will be installing rubber on the t-arms late 2003. Not wanting to start a rubber vs. Poly debate but when introducing poly bushings, consider new parts that attach to them vs. reusing the original metal parts. Just my $.02....

:seeya

 

Thanks for your help Tom. If the bearings haven't given me any trouble and the runout is OK, is there ANY reason to remove the spindle nut and flange. I am assuming everything is original. (Less than 90K miles).

Thanks,

snakey

 

You don't need to remove the spindle nut & flange unless you intend to take the assemblies apart. End play can be checked without removing the nut & flange.

The end play should be measured... even if they haven't been giving you any trouble. If they melt down on you 100 miles from no-where, you will have to flatbed the car... not many people have the expertise (or tools) to do Corvette rear wheel bearings. Bubba mechanics are notorious for claiming they can do the job, and then really mucking it all up. If you have the opportunity to check them... it's a good idea.

If they have a lot of miles on them, they are probably due to be re-greased. Lack of grease (and subsequent moisture) is the primary culprit. The bearing greasing tools they sell are useless. The assemblies need to be taken apart to properly clean & grease the bearings.

The "Corvette Rear Bearing Greasing Tool" greases the inner bearing, but not the outer unless you force grease all the way through the housing to the outer bearing. And then you may pop the outer grease seal, which is very difficult to press back into its bore with the spindle installed. If not immediately, then when the greasd heats up and expands... grease ends up all over your parking brake shoes (that's a no-no). You have to allow room for grease expansion inside the spindle support. The grease cavity cannot be filled to capacity. The "tool" eliminates that expansion buffer. I have first hand experience with this mess... did it on my own Vette before I knew any better... even before that tool was invented.

 

Excellent advice from Tom,who is an expert with these.
I would only add if you're going to remove them to clean and grease then just install new ones.
Gary