Strut Rod Bushings......
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 10
From: New Paltz, New York USA
Strut Rod Bushings......
If I remove the half shaft U clamps that hold half shafts to flanges and remove the shock mounting shaft from wheel end, can I then pull out on the bottom of the wheel to let the half shaft fall out? :confused: Or, are there more parts to remove to get the half shafts out? I want to replace the universals in my half shafts. Thanks in advance. :skep:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 1
Re: Strut Rod Bushings...... (Richard Cooper)
I think you just have to remove the inboard U-bolts (or caps if you've got a big block or have upgraded) and remove the outboard flange mounting bolts to the spindle (that's held on with the "french" locks).
You probably want to disconnect the leaf spring, too, and the rear sway bar links if you have one.
You probably want to disconnect the leaf spring, too, and the rear sway bar links if you have one.
Abby Normal
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 53,446
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From: Press "2" for English
Re: Strut Rod Bushings...... (Richard Cooper)
o.k. i'm confused. which are you replacing strut rod bushings or u-joints?
i'll assume your talking half shafts and u-joints. i've never had to pull my shock to do so. you should be able to remove the 4 bolts/2 straps on either end of the half shaft, then the wheel droop is generally enough to clear the u-joint. if you have a rear sway bar, you might want to disconnect that since it prevents the wheels from full travel. make sure the car is in neutral since you have it securely on jackstands. once the straps are off you may need to take a small pry bar or big screw driver and 'persuade' the u-joints, start with the wheel bearing side, and just release it from the yoke. after one is done, you can generally lift straight up so the half shaft is parallel and then pry out the inboard one. if the outboard u-joint doesn't clear initially, you can generally turn the wheel and halfshaft enough to work it out. just be careful of the joints. i know these will be getting replaced but the new ones are going in the same way and you don't want to drop the cups and all those fresh, little needle bearings all over the garage floor.
if you were talking about strut rods, just pull the inner cam bolts, the outer shock mounts and pry like hell.
i'll assume your talking half shafts and u-joints. i've never had to pull my shock to do so. you should be able to remove the 4 bolts/2 straps on either end of the half shaft, then the wheel droop is generally enough to clear the u-joint. if you have a rear sway bar, you might want to disconnect that since it prevents the wheels from full travel. make sure the car is in neutral since you have it securely on jackstands. once the straps are off you may need to take a small pry bar or big screw driver and 'persuade' the u-joints, start with the wheel bearing side, and just release it from the yoke. after one is done, you can generally lift straight up so the half shaft is parallel and then pry out the inboard one. if the outboard u-joint doesn't clear initially, you can generally turn the wheel and halfshaft enough to work it out. just be careful of the joints. i know these will be getting replaced but the new ones are going in the same way and you don't want to drop the cups and all those fresh, little needle bearings all over the garage floor.
if you were talking about strut rods, just pull the inner cam bolts, the outer shock mounts and pry like hell.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 10
From: New Paltz, New York USA
Re: Strut Rod Bushings...... (Richard Cooper)
Thanks guys, Clutchdust after your help I have decided to replace the U joints and the strut rod bushings. Thanks. :thumbs:
