What has your car Dyno'd at approximately?

 

I haven't dynoed in a while.. My last dyno run (before lots of changeups) was 365 RWHP and 410 ft/lbs RWTQ without reaching peak HP.. The dyno shut off at 112 mph :( :( before reaching peak HP...
The car has never been professionally tuned... Professional tuning should add at least another 10 HP...





[Modified by GrandSportC3, 3:47 PM 10/22/2003]

 

Nice numbers Oliver :cheers:

 

Mine hasn't been dynoed yet but I will certainly post them when I do have it dynodd. I'm hoping to put in an x-pipe and some exhaust cutouts before I have it dynoed and see how much extra if any hp is gained through the open exhaust.

 

I will dyno again in a few weeks... I'm hoping to get closer to 400 RWHP...

 

My guess would be AT LEAST 20 more horses with open exhaust!

 

Olivier - What have you done to your engine to expect more hp. Just tuning? Those skinny wheels and light seat aren't going to bring any more hp unless you ad a few stickers :lol: :lolg:

 

Well - since I dynoed last - I added a cold air intake which reduces the intake air temp by at least 30 - 40 degrees on a stationary vehicle.. which should add at least 15 - 20 RWHP... I also re-jetted my carb because my jetting was very off on that run... I ran a 15 : 1 A/F ratio... which is way too lean... I increased jet size by 4 numbers (on the secondary jets). My timing was off too and I adjusted it to the engine builder specs. I also hope that the dyno won't shut off at 112 mph/5300 RPM again so that the engine can peak before the dyno shuts off...
The crankcase evacuation system will add horsepower by increasing compression due to better sealing piston rings. The carbon fiber driveshaft and halfshafts will not increase engine power.. but they will increase RWHP because of lesser drivetrain loss.. I will also save 10 lbs each rear wheel compared to my previous setup.. That alone could make a 10 RWHP difference due to less centrifugal weight.
Another expected increase will be by switching to Royal Purple oil (Hot Rod Magazine reported a 7 HP increase by switching from regular oil to royal purple) and I will also use synthetic posi fluid which will also add RWHP...


[Modified by GrandSportC3, 5:28 PM 10/22/2003]

 

Too bad you've done too many things since the last dyno. It would be interesting to see how much if any each of those items contributed to more hp.
Post 'em when you get 'em. :cheers:

 

I see much more potential... In the future - I'm planning in adding a electric fuel pump and water pump (at least 10 RWHP) and I might even go with a aluminum flywheel which will add some more HP... My goals are 400+ RWHP and 11.50's at the track before the end of winter...


[Modified by GrandSportC3, 5:34 PM 10/22/2003]

 

Only 2 stroker motors on this whole board ........Wow :eek:

 

Lots of people have them.. but only few of them actually had them dyno tested...

 

Looks like I'm the only one here that had his 383 dynoed??? :confused: :confused:

 

:lol: Looks that way and both people that answered bought their motors from AR Racing right

 

I don't want to be too nitpicky, but you won't see that. These things do not reduce losses. They are easier to spin up, which is a very different thing. Its closer to saying that you've reduced the effective weight of the car than saying you've increased power. A dyno measures torque vs. rpm as the revs are slowly brought up. Rotating mass won't affect the reading significantly.

 

On old style cars - you have a significant higher drivetrain loss than on late model cars because of heavier drivetrain components..(drivetrain loss is at least 5% higher on older cars).
Let's just compare a C3 with manual transmission and a C5 with manual transmission...
I have seen many dyno results for both stock cars... C5's with MT typically lose 13 - 15 % through the drivetrain. C3's with MT typically lose 20 - 25% through the drivetrain.. That's a 5 - 10% difference in RWHP between C3 and C5's...
The reason for this is in the fluids and materials used in the transmission, rear end and shafts. Changing the rotating mass and fluids can give you 5% or more increase in RWHP. On a 400 HP car - that could be equal to 20 - 40 additional HP...
If you won't believe the differences - just check in the forum archives for dyno results for late model Vettes and older Vettes...
My goal is to reduce the drivetrain loss to 15% instead of approx. 22% right now... I will dyno the car at the end of November or early December and will post the difference in RWHP...

[Modified by GrandSportC3, 10:48 PM 10/23/2003]


[Modified by GrandSportC3, 10:50 PM 10/23/2003]

 

Those differences are due to the transmission and differential. I can believe changing fluids will change a dyno reading, but reducing rotating mass is a different thing. Its still important, but will show up in track times, not on the dyno.

 

Believe me - it will show up at the dyno..

I might take a heavy set of rear wheels and a light weight set of wheels to the dyno and change the wheels during dyno runs... Let's say there is a difference of 10 lbs each wheel/ 20 lbs for both wheels - you will get over 5 more RWHP just with the wheel change.. The same thing counts for any rotating mass.. One of the biggest changes in RWHP is a switch from cast iron to aluminum flywheel...

Rotating mass which is NOT rotating at the dyno -like race seat, front wheels etc.. will not show up on the dyno but will show up at the track.. but as long as the mass is rotating during the dyno pull - it will make a difference on the dyno...believe me.. it's Physics...


[Modified by GrandSportC3, 11:09 PM 10/23/2003]

 

Heh. I guess I shouldn't talk about things I really don't know about. I just looked it up, and apparently most dynos do not make much of an effort to measure brake horsepower, which is what I though they did. So your weight reductions will show up. They just won't mean anything. They'll vary on every type of dyno, depending on how quickly they have you accelerate.

 

Well - there's a big difference between engine and rear wheel horsepower... The changes on the drivetrain won't effect engine power at all... I'm just shooting for a more effective drivetrain...