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Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves

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Old Oct 29, 2003 | 10:56 PM
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Default Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves

Im building a 454/496 cid (or something like this)(weekend driver car) that will be pushing about 500 hp(or so),,,,using 10.75:1 comp,,,,and GM bowtie aluminum rec port heads.............the heads come with the stainless VALVES,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what (IF ANY) benefits are to be gained by switching to titanium valves?
Brent :confused:


[Modified by Titanium Rat, 12:18 AM 10/30/2003]
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Old Oct 29, 2003 | 11:08 PM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Titanium Rat)

The only benifit to titanium valve is they are easier to control at high RPM. On the motors that I build that are set-up to run over 8000RPM I use titanium. On everything else I stay with stainless. Titanium does not have the life that stainless has. It does not like to be heat cycled a lot of time, particularly the exhaust valves. Titanium also will not hold valve angles as well and must be touched up more frequently.
Titanium are great for high RPM race motors but have to many disadvantages to run on the street.
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Old Oct 29, 2003 | 11:29 PM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Pete79L82)

Under 7,000rpms, you don't need Titanium valves, and I sometime question titanium retainers below 7,000 rpms.

I'd spend the money elsewhere. :yesnod:
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 01:17 AM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Corey 68)

thanks for the info :thumbs:
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 08:46 AM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Titanium Rat)

For what you are building save the money go Stainless steel!!! Titanium are expensive and really for high rev race cars.
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 12:09 PM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Sigforty)

If you can get them cheap enough they are worth every penny. I got mine from a race team for a swap of my brand new Manley ProFlows Or @ $18 a piece.

The beauty of them is the reduced valve train weight. So a race motor looks at more rpm potential and I looked at less spring required to achive a certian rpm without inducing valve float.

So for a street big block in the sub 7000 rpm the reduced weight of the large intake valve would really help when using sollid roller cams. Less spring weight will make the rollers last longer under low oil conditions like idling at a stop light.


[Modified by gkull, 11:39 AM 10/30/2003]
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 12:20 PM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Titanium Rat)

I wouldn't use them on the street. I was given a set used only on the dyno for $150 for all 16 valves in perfect shape. Took them home then started to look into using them on the street and was talked out of them because of the decreased lift span. Sure were light but I returned them and got my money back.
I ended up with manley severe duty stainless for my blown engine.
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 12:46 PM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (norvalwilhelm)

Norval - You do have to prep the heads for them. If you run big spring pressures you have to increase the diameter of the seat incert. So you don't beat the seats out of the head and then you also grind the valve and seat face wider for increased contact patch.

I'm not sure of lifetime expectations. I ruined good sets of SS valves by mushrooming the keeper area because of valve float do to no rev limiter during a WOT tranny failure.




[Modified by gkull, 2:04 PM 10/30/2003]
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Old Oct 30, 2003 | 01:19 PM
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Default Re: Titanium vs Stainless Steel Valves (Titanium Rat)

Don't mess with them. Run the stock valves for your application.
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