I hope I didn't screw up. I drained the radiator and pulled it without flushing the system. Now I have an unflushed engine and water pump.

3 questions:

Do I stick a garden hose in the water pump or the thermostat housing to flush what remains? Which flow direction or both?

While the car sits (in my garage) awaiting the new radiator and hoses, do I have to block air from getting into the waterways and creating surface rust?

Any other tips?

Thanks.

:cheers:

 

I just flushed mine today, poured a litre bottle of CLR in the heater hose port. let i sit for about 1/2 hour and then put the hose on it. Removed the plugs on the side of the block. Spent almost 1 hour flushing in all directions, even put the hose where the plugs were and found a lot of slim came out.

 

I like the Prestone Flush & FIll kits with their garden hose attachments. They call for cutting one of the heater hoses (can't remember which inlet or outlet, I have it in the garage if you need it) and inserting a "T pipe" that you can attach a garden hose to. I think the water will come out of the lower radiator hose. I always tell myself I'll save the old hose to use next time, but I never do; I just replace the HHs.

After I get clean water coming out, I drain the system, top it off with distilled water, run it, drain it, top it off with distilled water, etc. etc. etc. for at least a few gallons of distilled (to get as much of the tap water -- with it's minerals -- out of there).

Then I do the final drain and fill with coolant & distilled water. I run the system with the cap off for a while after the thermostat opens, filling the system as needed. Then I just keep checking the coolant level for a week or two and make sure it's topped off. Wood :smash: , I have not had any problems with air in the system.

Oh, since it's sitting w/o a radiator, you may want to plug the lower hose and fill the system with distilled water. Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems like you could have some internals start to rust if they sit exposed to air for too long.


[Modified by jerryp58, 7:21 AM 11/2/2003]

 

What radiator are you installing Jay?

At this point I don't think there's a way to get all the old coolant out. Is there a block drain on the side of the block?

Garden hose idea sounds good. The normal coolant path is up thru the lower hose, thru the engine and then out the T-stat housing back to the radiator. If you're going to flush, I run water thru every opening and see where it comes out! :lol:

I don't know anyway to prevent surface rust from forming while you replace the radiator. I don't think blocking off the air will do anything, the air is already in there.

 

I use to be an advocate of the CLR flush. Did it one fall. Next spring had to replace radiator and water pump. AND, I did flush it quite extensively.

 

Well you can drain what remains in the block. You’ll need to jack the car up (on stands) and remove the block plug on each side just aft of the motor mounts. They look like regular bolts (1/2” or maybe 9/16” wrench here) but are cut with pipe thread. Man you’ll be impressed with the junk that comes out – yes you better have a catch pan ready. Also use pipe sealer when you but them back in.
Even if you drained the block like mentioned you may want to flush. I bought/use a cheap plastic Tee in my heater hose to connect the garden hose. Without the radiator you need to plug either inlet or outlet of water pump. Why not flush each way?
Well if it’s only open for a few days not much to worry here as any damage is already done. This isn’t rocket science and a nitrogen purge won’t be necessary. If your really worried for a long term storage you could just seal the water pump holes and fill with antifreeze. :)